La Casa Grande by Jenny Pidgeon

La Casa Grande is reason enough to come to Arcos de la Frontera, and it is by far the best place to stay in town. Arcos, one of the famous white towns of the Andalucian sierra, is much less touristy than nearby Ronda and it is somewhat marred by ever-growing suburbs which are rather more grimy-grey than white. However, the natural surroundings are still spectacular and the narrow cobbled streets of the old town where La Casa Grande lies are picturesque. La Casa really deserves that over-used epithet ‘a gem of a hotel’ – you enter through the heavy wooden door of the 18th century mansion house to find yourself in an intimate hotel that feels like the exceptionally well decorated Portobello home of a friend with great taste.

The patio has a cool white and black marble floor, filled with plant pots and colour. The sitting room is comfortable, with sofas and books (in myriad languages) for lazy afternoons. Everywhere are wonderful deep ochre, red and earthy colours, natural materials and beautiful art. The bedroom walls are constructed from a traditional mixture of pigment, chalk and sand which gives fabulous rich hues of orange, blue and green. The feeling is one of rustic chic, with exposed wooden beams, Moorish touches, and ingeniously designed bathrooms each with colourful and imaginative features. La Paloma suite is in the old pigeon-loft, still showing the old perching arches, and it opens straight onto the lovely roof terrace which boasts what must be the best view in Arcos. Sitting up here, eating early evening tapas and watching the sunset turn the adjacent cathedral a glowing orange against the panoramic valley views below, is enough to fill the guestbook with raving superlatives and ensure many return visits.