Kooljaman Camp by Caroline Major
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Traditional homeland of the Bardi people, The Dampier Peninsula outside of Broome boasts some of the most beautiful coast in the world. Dramatic red cliffs hit white sand on the southern side of the cape, while on the north, the rocks form ragged coves. Occasionally, there is a boat or plane to break the silence, but the transport of choice out here is the dust coated 4WD. It’s terrain for offroad vehicles with low tyre pressure and a steely wit to face off the locals.
On the Cape, spend your days 4WDriving up creeks and beaches, looking out for crocodiles, relaxing on your balcony, taking breaks to swim on the high tide, collecting shells or using the rock clay to paint on a design for your private beach corroboree. It’s a funny spot in the world, that attracts different people. You might be sharing the beach with Australian families on driving holidays, an amateur photographer, a tourist on safari and of course, the isolated individuals who live there. At its best, it’s theatre. And that’s when you realize how far from the world you are.
Kooljaman is owned jointly by two communities on the Dampier Peninsula. Befriending one of the Aborigines you see around will give you a much bigger appreciation for this beautiful bit of ‘country’. They know this land, and tell a great story. Failing that, you will find some cultural information signposted around the place, which gives fascinating insight into the Australian Aboriginal relationship with the land.
The accommodation, in ‘Safari Tents’, is designed for comfortable, outdoor living. Built on raised platforms, each cabin is set off the pathway, secluded from its neighbours. Enjoy the birdsong, and the snap, crackle, pop of the bush as you walk. Stairs lead onto a central corridor between the toilet, shower and storage room at the back, and the tent at the front. Unzip, and inside, you’re fully exposed to the view. The tent has a hardwood floor and electricity. You’re set to wait for the sunrise and its plague of mosquitos, knowing that you’ll be fully protected from their stinging beak. Outside, the balcony is loaded with deck chairs, a table, and the centerpiece of your stay in these tents, The BBQ.
Part of the decision to stay at Kooljaman should be influenced by a desire to cook sea-fresh West Australian fish. If you travel with the right spices, there is a multitude of tasty things you can do with the fish and a BBQ. If you can’t get out to catch it, the camp sells a selection of breakfast and lunch bbq packs with fish, steak and bacon and eggs amongst others. It's better to shop in Broome before you head to the Dampier Peninsula however. You’ll need plenty of fruit and salads for the BBQuing and, drinks and snacks. It’s a LONG way to the nearest store. Don’t forget to use your petrol wisely.