J.W. Marriott Phuket Resort and Spa by John Borthwick
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The Surin, Phuket (formerly known as The Chedi, Phuket)
"A well-heeled, slate-and-teak-style luxury resort in Phuket; highly recommended for families."
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The architectural flair of this stunning 265-room retreat matches the drama of its Andaman Sea-with-sunset location. The first J.W. Marriott resort (as opposed to hotel) in Asia, its style and appointments indicate its aspiration to beat the best of Phuket's existing crop of excellent five-star resorts.
The Marriott's main buildings reflect in vast ornamental pools. By night, the white walls and archways of two symmetrical pavilions that frame a central pool become inverted images in the pool's mirror-like waters, thus seeming to multiply to four buildings. For a moment I feel I have stepped into a three-dimensional image by the illusionist artist M.C. Escher.
There are no illusions when it comes to dining; the chefs definitely know which way is up, including with "blue-eyed cuisine", so to speak. That is, they show compassionate restraint when adding the chilis to the Thai dishes prepared for temperate Western palates. In the Sala Rim Talay seafood restaurant I relish the tapas, plus tom yam gai and a prawn and banana blossom salad. Suitably spicy, but no fire extinguisher required. Other restaurants in the resort include the Cucina with traditional Italian fare, the casual Marriott Café and a sushi bar.
At evening the resort is transformed. As classical Thai music is performed, over one hundred gas torches are set aflame, bathing the pools, garden and beach walk in gentle light.
My guestroom is a pleasure dome spacious enough to swing several Siamese cats and a laptop within. (A broad desk, good lighting and modem connection are there to indulge guests who are incapable of separating work from real life.) The décor features Thai motifs and fabrics, and there's a sala daybed nook with colourful bolsters and a sea view; all these Thai touches ensure that you never wake wondering for a moment which country you're in.
The resort offers all the ancillary bells and whistles one could wish for - kids club, business centre, gym, deli, limo transfers, lobby bar, lap pool and more. Depending upon how you feel about madding crowds, here you're either far from them all or you may find yourself a little crowd-deprived.
In the latter case, grab a car (self-driving is easy in Phuket) or a car and driver, and head for the raunch and shopping riot of Patong Beach, 40 km south. Or to Patong's polar opposite, the serene temples of Wat Phra Nang Sang or Wat Phra Tang. Meanwhile, just north of Phuket are the limestone islands of Phang Nga Bay. Excursions depart daily: visit, among others, the celebrated Ko Ping Gan, aka James Bond Island, where an early model 007 quaffed Dom Perignon in The Man With The Golden Gun.
As neither a golfer, tennis player, nor honeymooner, some of the Marriott's two- and three-night packages might be wasted on me. However, more romantic or sportive types may spend, if so inclined, every waking hour on the tennis courts (following private lessons with a coach); or do several rounds of golf at the nearby 36-hole Blue Canyon Country Club; or perhaps hide out on a honeymoon package that includes a two and a half hour couples' massage.
The resort's Mandara Spa is a cool and tranquil temple of marble, teak and herbal aromas. Asked to choose from a menu of treatments, I skip the more esoteric ones, including those that feature yoghurt, salt, herbs, honey and coffee scrubs - suggesting either a late breakfast or that I am being prepared for immersion in a large cooking pot. I opt for a traditional Thai massage.
The masseuse bathes my feet then unlocks a few facial pressure points while I succumb to the ambient flute music and scents of clove and ylang-ylang oil. Ninety minutes drift into infinity as she teases my tendons, slips my shoulder knots and turns what had passed for muscle into something as relaxed as latex. Deep tissue and pressure points get plenty of attention. As I emerge from my trance she assures me that this treatment "soothes and balances." Balances? My bones seem to have dissolved. Rather than walk, I pour myself back to my room.
The Marriott claims the longest beachfront - over half a kilometre - of any deluxe property in Phuket. I wander out to the untrammelled sands of Mai Khao, which is also a protected sea turtle nesting area, there to be met not by turtles but a bevy of village massage ladies. Too late for me - I'm all spa'd out.