Jaipur Shopping by Design by Cynthia Rosenfeld
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Its ornate buildings painted for Prince Albert and Queen Elizabeth II’s visit in 1876, India’s “Pink City” has a longstanding reputation for style, from its sparkling precious stones to its architectural gems like the Palace of the Winds and the romantic Amer Fort. Design savvy travellers who want to buy into Jaipur’s timeless taste need not drape themselves like a maharani. Extraordinary antiques and unique modern home wares can be found all over this town, which is best explored by romantic rickshaw.
The sandalwood bangles smell fantastic, and the loose weave Gujarati scarves make great gifts but AFKD (B-6 / A-1 Prithviraj Road, C-Scheme) is Jaipur’s first true interior shop, so it’s worth admiring the wire coffee tables woven by artisans who used to make bird cages, groovy pillowcases threaded with recycled plastic strips and modern stacking bowls made with Rohida wood traditionally used by Jain priests. Founded by an industrial designer and his architect wife, this basement level boutique should top any Jaipur design tour.
Blue pottery fills the red house of Neeja International (S-19 Bhawani Singh Road, C-Scheme). Artisan quality plates in a kaleidoscope of colours line these walls, while hand-painted tile drawer knobs make it easy to bring a hint of India into any interior.
Colour lovers should also direct their rickshaws to Saroj (A-2 Tilak Marg, Nandanam Apartments, Ground Floor, C-Scheme) housed in an otherwise uninteresting apartment block. Collectors flock here for late 19th-century Ravi Varma prints, vibrant and highly amusing depictions of Indian life, some embellished with silk and sequin details. Antique maps and vintage advertisements also line the walls, while the shop’s notable collection of naked porcelain dolls used to point out bodily complaints back when it was indiscreet for the doctor to touch his patient, will amuse the modern mind.
Collectors and curators agree that the elegant and affable Subhash Sharma at Rajasthan Fabrics & Arts (Laxman Dwara, City Palace) is the name to know in Jaipur for antique textiles and traditional clothing. His well stocked shop is a virtual sub-continental tour of hand spun fabric of Peshawar and Gujarati knotted tie dye to Rajput finery. Modern updates at more modest prices can be found at Satayam (Laxman Dwara, City Palace), his son’s ultra-chic address just next door.
Pass the pigs and drive through the saffron-hued gate to Ambika Exports (Naila House, Moti Doongri Road), a cavernous warehouse piled high with yarn balls in every shade, waiting to be woven. Originally made in Indian villages as ‘dowry dhurries,’ these hand-knotted rugs were commercialised by the British and woven in the Bikaner jails. These days, wool or cotton carpets can be custom designed and made to order in about 90 days by non-child labour under supervised conditions. Call ahead and come prepared to create, though there is a well-stocked cupboard for those who need design direction.
Housed in a haveli in the shadow of Amer Fort, the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing (Anokhi Haveli, Kheri Gate) celebrates Rajastan’s block printing heritage as recorded on cotton and silk. Three floors of well-lit galleries take visitors through the history of this colourful craft from the 18th century, highlighting stylistic variations by region, such as Sanganer’s red and black flowers or the masculine indigo prints of Bagru. In the top level demonstration room, a stamp master patiently guides visiting novices eager to leave their wobbly paisleys and flowers on stretched white cloth.
Similar prints for the home, like baby blankets and duvets can be found back in town at Anokhi (2 Tilak Marg, C-Scheme) where Jaipur’s best latte makes an ideal break from all this beautiful but exhausting shopping.
For inspiration on places to stay, check out TI's listings for luxury hotels in Jaipur.