Hungaria Palace Hotel by Jamie Dunford Wood

A classic 20s hotel, the Hungaria is often overlooked as an option in Venice – as, indeed, is the Lido generally. The Excelsior down the road may be a smarter, more alluring hotel with a wonderful expanse of beach, but the charms of downtown Lido are right here on the doorstep, and of course rates are much more reasonable.

The hotel, at first glance, looks lie an elegant Victorian urinal. Built I 1905, its 60 rooms are spread over four floors – three traditionally furnished in Edwardian style, one in modern style. Rooms are spacious, with cream walls and high, corniced ceilings, both elegant and understated, in contrast to the garish exterior. Antique furnishings are in belle époque style, and floors are of parqueted wood. The whole hotel was redone in 1999. To get the full effect, pay a few extra euros for the superior or deluxe doubles.

Beyond the large sit-out terrace and short drive is the wide, tree-lined St Elisabetta avenue: great position, spacious, friendly and great value, with something of the elegance of pre-war Venice that you will pay top dollar for elsewhere.