Hotel Waldstatterhof by Brian Johnston

The Hotel Waldstätterhof could scarcely be better located: it's right across the street from the train station and just a short walk across the bridge to Lucerne's old town. (Though on a busy street, the traffic dies down at night, and electric shutters, double glazing and curtains in each room mean there is little problem with noise or light.) The building, picked out in salmon and pink with frescoes adorning the summit, dates from the early twentieth century, and in any other location would look like a country castle. It has been renovated to stylish and contemporary effect. The small reception area has bright red and white walls, white leather swivel armchairs and black sofas. Spiky potted plants add to the groovy vibe. We're aren't sure why there are watering cans hanging in the windows – no doubt just a whimsy to water the sunflowers in the vases beneath. The lobby also offers a computer and some very useful webcams showing the weather at the surrounding alpine peaks and all over Switzerland. Only the corridors (rather grey) and the tiny elevator (suck in your stomach) are a little disappointing. Parking is SFR 17, but you can also ask at reception for a ticket to leave your car at spaces in the street for just SFR 5 until the next morning, or SFR 10 for 24 hours. If that isn't the best parking deal in all Switzerland, we're still hunting.

The rooms
Rooms at the Waldstätterhof are very cheerful, with parquet floors, large windows and red highlight in the décor. Red curtains are banded in blue and orange, there's a red throw on the bed, and two red armchairs for watching the flatscreen television, or just relaxing after a day spent tramping the shores of Lake Lucerne. The wall behind the bed has an interesting back-lit woven canvas in reds and purples that adds a funky modern dimension to the rooms. The ceilings are studded with light bulbs bright enough to perform surgery when they're all aglow, but guests can enjoy the endless permutations of ambient lighting. Only the old-fashioned wardrobes seem to have strayed into the contemporary décor like Tardises, hiding not a time traveller but at least a small safe and useful umbrella. We're also delighted to find a kettle, something usually sadly missing in Continental hotels. A fruit plate on the large desk is also a nice touch. While rooms are large, bathrooms are very compact, though the shower is excellent. A hairdryer, practically the size of a vacuum cleaner, is attached to the wall. There are no luxurious touches, but it doesn't seem to matter. These are nice hotel rooms with a pleasant vibe, thoughtfully put together on a reasonable budget, and a good lesson in the art of hospitality.