Hotel-Restaurante Zuhayra by Brian Jackman

With its Moorish castle and narrow streets of whitewashed houses, Zuheros is a typical Andaluz pueblo blanco, set against the limestone ramparts of the Sierra de Subbetica, an hour’s drive south of Cordoba. It is also the gateway to the beautiful but little-known Parque Natural de la Subbetica, a protected area the size of Surrey, where vultures soar and wild peonies bloom in late spring. A well-marked footpath runs from the foot of the village directly into the park through the spectacular gorge of the Rio Bailon, and most British visitors come to Zuheros for the walking.

The Hotel Zuhayra is virtually the only place to stay in Zuheros. Fortunately, although it’s only a simple, two-star establishment, the friendliness of its English-speaking management and the excellence of its restaurant – with the accent on fresh local produce and regional dishes – makes this an excellent base for exploring the park’s high limestone valleys. The clean white rooms are all en suite, with tiled floors and shuttered windows – some with sweeping views over the village’s tiled rooftops to the olive groves beyond. Sadly, there is no garden; only a small walled patio where you can relax at the end of the day. The alternative is the hotel’s cavernous downstairs bar where you can order a San Miguel and join the locals watching Real Madrid on TV.

Zuheros is a 90-minute drive from Malaga Airport. Follow the main road (331) to Cordoba via Antequera and turn off at Lucena, following signs to Cabra and Dona Mencia. From Cordoba, follow the main road to Granada (432), and turn off at Dona Mencia.