Hotel Raphael by Jamie Dunford Wood

The Hotel Raphael is a classic grand dame of Paris, but without the palace pretensions. These hotels tend to get overlooked by newcomers, who go for the more famous names, but repeat business is strong here, and what you get for your money is loads of old world Parisian charm, impeccable service, and above all, space - a luxury all too often lacking in the standard category rooms of the palace hotels.

The tone is set by the massive oriental rugs, the quality oils (including an original Turner) and the antique wood panelling of the large reception hall, which leads to an exquisite little library bar (the English bar), and an antique elevator to take you up to the 85 rooms. This is a favourite of ministers and politicians, with its romantic rooftop terrace for summer dining.

The rooms are decorated in soft French Empire style, with old creaky herring-bone wooden floors, richly patterend rugs, more wood panelling, and 19th-century antiques. Wallpapering is ornate, and curtains swagged. Many of the rooms have large wardrobe spaces - ideal for a long stay - with mirrored panels and ornate plaster cornicing. Half of the deluxe rooms have separate boudoirs (dressing rooms to you and me), and all of them have separate showers.

All in all the Raphael has a Ritz sort of feeling, and all that prevents 4-star deluxe status is a night chef. A small price to pay, one would have thought.