Hotel Montana by Jamie Dunford Wood

After a number of recommendations on this hotel from TI clients, we went to check it out. Calling itself the Art Deco Hotel Montana, the building dates from 1910 and is in a wonderful position half way up the hill overlooking the lake and town of Lucerne, the only blot on the otherwise faultless landscape being the block-like Palace Hotel on the edge of the lake below, which is rather like having someone in the queue in front of you. Still, it doesn't obscure the tremendous views - this must be one of the few hotels that has a view of the complete length of the old Chapel Bridge, as well as the mountains and town. The terrace restaurant is perfect for eating out on a sunny day, and when the weather is inclement, wall to wall windows allow you to take the view indoors with you. The style downstairs is art deco, all that remains of the original, but by the time it gets to the cosy but bright jazz bar at one end it has become more modern.

This is a Best Western hotel - not necessarily reassuring as to originality or supreme comfort, but dependable as to a friendly welcome and independence of mind, as all BW linked hotels are independently owned and managed. And all praise to them for searching out such places, generally in the middle, more affordable range of the market, vetting them, and then encouraging them to retain individuality.

Upstairs the hotel falls into two distinct categories - the 'modern art deco' rooms of the 2nd and 3rd floors, and the 'classic' or 'elegant' 'art deco' rooms of the 4th and 5th. Those are the hotels' terms, because while the modern rooms are really quite interesting, with multi-coloured and multi-shaded wooden parquet floors, modern two-tone wooden furniture a la David Linley, and black and white check upholstery, the 'classic' or 'elegant' rooms have nothing art deco about them. They are neutral, beige and dull, with dusty pink carpets, innocuous framed Monet prints on the walls, and repro French Empire chairs, stools and bedside tables - antiqued to look old - which apparently appeal to mild mannered English guests who can't be doing with all that trendy modern rubbish. However, these are all due to be renovated shortly by a new owner who has 'lots of exciting ideas', so we shall await developments. Meanwhile book a room on the 2nd or 3rd floors - in the front with the views (and small balconies). Insist too on a bathroom with twin sinks, as most of them have, for these tend to be bigger. And if you can afford it, spend the third again extra on a junior suite, because although the double rooms are a decent size, the junior suites are twice that, with two lake view windows - 4 if you get a corner room.