Hotel Metropole by Matthew Barker

Belgian’s Grandest Dame has been restored to its full-on 19th century pomp: polished marble, pillars, laurels, arches, chandeliers… the rooms are a neat, modern counterpoint with occasional art deco flourishes. 400 rooms (10 suites).

Hotel Attractions: The L’ Alban Chambon restaurant gets up to plenty of fancy culinary tricks (back of pike perch with a caviar spread and a glazed Champagne sauce; sautéed slices of pigeon on a milk-bread loaf); Le 19eme bar with its Corinthian columns, leather sofas and palm trees, is suitably clubby; the splendidly cluttered Café Metropole has a year-round open terrace. No fitness centre, but a couple of rounds of golf out at the Ravenstein and Waterloo courses can be arranged.

Local Attractions: Dead centre: just across the road from the Theatre de la Monnaie opera house, the Bourse, Grand Place and the fabulous Theatre de Toone puppet theatre. The Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinee, a striking work of art nouveau architecture, pays hearty tribute to the fine national tradition of comic strips (Tintin, Lucky Luke, er… The Smurfs). Jazz at the Music Village; beer, smoke and art deco fittings at L’Esperance; bouillabaisse, mermaids and terribly well-to-do locals at La Sirene d’Or. Designer togs on avenue Antoine Dansaert.