Hotel Gabbia D'Oro by Matthew Barker

Gloriously cluttered charmer in an 18th century palazzo brimming with antiques, gilt-framed oils, Oriental carpets and original frescoes. Sits next to the Gardello Tower on the corner of the Piazza delle Erbe. 27 rooms (19 suites).

Hotel Attractions: No restaurant, but the bar, with its low-beamed ceiling and carved panels is spot-on for a long aperitif and you can take a leisurely tea in the L’Orangerie courtyard. Deep, deep tubs in the pink marble bathrooms.

Local Attractions: Perfectly preserved Roman/gothic/medieval/ renaissance/all-points-in-between-and-since city: the open-air amphitheatre hosts a strong program of opera, ballet and recitals; the Castelvecchio and Gallery of Palazzo Forti houses works by Tiepolo, Giambattista and Lotto. Casa di Giulietta is, despite the dubious balcony, an enjoyable diversion, while Casa di Romeo is a bit of a let down. Two of the best places to eat are just outside of the town: Caval de oro and Ciccarelli both offer home-produced traditional Veronese dishes (gnocchi, horsemeat stew, fish from nearby Lake Garda). Big wine region (Valpolicella, Bardolino, Amarone, Suove). Antique markets seem to be springing up everywhere, the one at Piazza San Zeno probably the most reliable.