Formerly the house of the Count of Arlatan, this atmospheric townhouse is built above some earlier roman ruins at the edge of the ancient forum of Arles, some of whch have been recently excavated and are startlingly revealed through a glass floor in reception. A hotel since the 1920s, the Arlatan has been run by the same family for four generations and is full of character. Don't be misled by the 3 stars - the result of its lack of a restaurant - for it's a gem, stuffed with well worn antiques. Rooms come in a variety of shapes and sizes, the prettiest on the first floor and looking onto the patio in the middle of the building, for the hotel is on a narrow side street just of the Place du Forum. Big old armoires, old fashioned iron radiators, high wood-beamed ceilings (some painted) and a variety of antique beds, including some high, provencal examples, combine with tasteful modern fabrics to create a real feeling of timeless solidity and comfort. In some rooms the walls are of bare stone and windows, especially on the first floor, are tall and aristocratic. Bathrooms are generally small, but are simple and prettily tiled, and all rooms but four have air-conditioning. Walls are generally white/cream. If you're lucky you'll get an oil painting in your room, otherwise the framed posters are the only jarring note. Verdict? It's easy to overdo heritage like this, but the Arlatan goes for understatement and gets it exactly right. The hotel has expanded into neighbouring houses, so try and get a room in the original house. There's a rather scrappy pool and windblown garden at the back. The staff seem to be charming.
