Hotel Alfonso XIII by Matthew Barker

Heady fusion of Moorish columns and arabesques, regal pomp and opulent modish clutter. The El Patio courtyard is wonderful at night. Commissioned by the then king of Spain in 1928, and a big favourite with visting royalty. 146 rooms (19 suites).

Hotel Attractions: The San Fernando restaurant has an all-bases-covered international menu, but regional cooking gets a look-in too (gazpacho, chorizo, or rabo de Toro - a ragout of bull’s tail), or there’s sushi at the Kaede restaurant, set in the hotel’s orange blossom-scented gardens. Solarium, outdoor swimming pool (with bar); three golf courses nearby.

Local Attractions: The gothic Cathedral is the third largest in the world, with the Giralda minaret one of the city’s landmarks; Moorish influences abound (the Reales Alcazares, the Torre de Oro), look out too for Hannibal Gonzalez’ modernist Plaza de Espana. The Museum of Arts houses works by Murillo, El Greco and Pacheco; the Bullfight Museum is located in the city’s famed bullring. The Barrio Santa Cruz and Modern Centre (ie post-Expo) best for clubs and tapas bars (although many of these actually close at midnight, rather than open, as is often the case in other Spanish cities); for restaurants try La Cueva, El Giraldillo or Meson don Raimundo.

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