Hot Destination: Happening Hamburg Hotels by Campbell Jefferys
Featured Hotel in Hamburg
Park Hyatt Hamburg
See all hotels in Hamburg >
As an international destination, Hamburg has always lagged behind other German and European cities. Recent developments, including a massive revamping of the harbour warehouse district and a sprouting of cosy cafes and unique shops in the city's trendier quarters, have changed that. Once only known for the Reeperbahn's sinful mile and for musical theatre, it's now a diverse city and luxury hotels in Hamburg are amongst the most interesting and varied in the whole of Germany.
The city centre fans out from the Rathausmarkt, with the Alster Lake on one side and the sprawling harbour just to the south. The centre is given over to shopping, theatres, churches and museums. A law states that no high-rise building shall be higher than a church tower; thus, the skyline is dominated by spires, including the copper tower of the St Michel church, which is also used as a landmark for approaching ships. There's a fine collection of classical and modern art at the Hamburg Kunsthalle while the Bucerius Forum next to the city hall has rotating exhibitions.
Central Locations
To set yourself in the centre, try the nautically-themed Park Hyatt housed in the sublime Levantehaus mall, or the exceedingly modern Side Hotel, across the street from the State Opera House, is more artistic and minimalist. Both make great bases for exploring the centre, with the Side two blocks from the Planten un Blomen park and the Hyatt a short walk from the coffee-coated buildings of the warehouse district and the vast (almost completed) expanse of the Hafen City, Europe's largest inner city development project.
The centre also includes the nightlife district of St Pauli, much tamer now than when the Beatles were rocking the Star Club and when 'Live Sex' was on every second building (the footpaths are no longer sticky), and the gentrified gay and lesbian district of St Georg. The new George Hotel lies close to the Alster Lake and at the end of the cafe-lined Lange Reihe.
The Alster Lake is popular with runners and walkers, and is often dotted with sailboats and ferries. Hamburg boasts more bridges than Amsterdam and Venice combined and there is an overwhelming sense of there being water everywhere, especially when those grey clouds roll in from the east and it falls from the sky. Hamburg has a mild climate, but the weather changes quickly, with fresh winds blowing down the River Elbe from the North Sea. This is the journey all the giant container ships and cruise liners take to reach Europe's second largest harbour. You can marvel at their size from a beachside cafe in Övelgönne, south of the hip Ottensen quarter, or see them from the bridges of the warehouse district close to the city centre. Wherever you are, you'll always see water and hear the toots and horns of ships.
Out in Ottensen
With numerous bars, cafes and arthouse cinemas, Ottensen, rivalling the nearby Schanzenviertel in popularity, has fast become the haunt of choice for everyone from students to middle-aged hipsters. Within striking distance of this cramped quarter, with groovy-baby rooms designed like a sixties version of the future is the 25 Hours Hotel, one of a number of unusual and downright funky hotels that have cropped up in Hamburg recently. More sophisticated, in a former warhouse of Hamburg's gas works, is the Gastwerk Hotel which has spacious modern rooms and red-brick lofts.
Planning a German getaway? See our full selection of luxury hotels in Hamburg.