Hostellerie Du Vallon De Valrugues by Jamie Dunford Wood

Unlike its sister hotel, Les Bories, the Hostellerie du Vallon de Valrugues feels like a city hotel, despite its suburban setting. Or perhaps a country club - with tennis, small golf range and large 25m pool. What it lacks are large grounds, but facilities within more than make up for this, and it also has the virtue of being 10 minutes on foot from the centre of St Remy. The smart restaurant is gastronomic, with live music in the evenings, and draws a local crowd; seminar rooms appeal to business functions, for which the hotel is ideal; service is sharp, and they don't do marriages, so living up to its 'relais du silence' denomination. Décor is florid - repro frescoed walls and lots of fake marbling.

Loggia rooms are the best of the doubles, with small terraces and views of the Alpilles or the pool. The prestige suite has its own private pool. Guests are a mix of smart French and UK/US. There's a nice shaded sit-out terrace where you can watch the Jaguars arrive in the narrow driveway.