High-Tea, Toi-Tea: Tea Time in Colombo by Devanshi Mody

Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, suffering from “a sinking feeling” at about four o’ clock in the afternoon, created teatime. Adopting the European tea format, she invited friends to join her for an additional afternoon meal at 5 o’ clock in her rooms at Belvoir Castle. The meal incorporated sandwiches, cakes and, of course, tea.

Today, Afternoon Tea in the world’s most luxurious hotels and salons de thé has become a most elaborate and exclusive affair, attracting a very elegant clientele. A rage, the London Ritz has Afternoon Tea services from 9.00 am to 7 pm, such is the insane demand to have tea at this legendary abode (even if the Ritz is most certainly not the best place in London for tea- indeed, it is amongst the worst).

Tea Time in Colombo

Tea time is picking up in Colombo. Although, Colombo seems to think it serves “High Tea” as opposed to “Afternoon Tea.” Perhaps it is Colombo’s fascination with so-called “High Society”? (Someone called Kolu seems very fond of the term, and his own writing). Now, traditionally and by definition, “High Tea” is a light evening meal incorporating a cooked dish, bread, butter etc. But Colombo’s tea time buffets deviate so utterly from the quintessentially English three-tiered platters heaped with cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches, scones, crumpets and cake, why bother preserving even that bit of tradition pertaining to the distinction between afternoon tea and high tea? Anyway, what’s in a name? And if high tea gets you into higher spirits, well, why not?

High Tea (if one must) makes for a lovely Christmas treat for a friend or for children. It certainly is in London and Paris where you often see grandparents bringing the little ones out for this glamorous ritual. It has also become quite a roman-tea-c affair. However, admittedly, one isn’t spoilt for choice in Colombo. High Tea might have come into vogue. And I must confess a partiality for this languorous time of the afternoon. But I don’t necessarily find compelling many of the places offering it.

Indeed, some establishments serve cakes whose textures aren’t dissimilar to something you are likely to find at Arpico Centre (and I don’t mean the supermarket section), whilst the vociferously florescent pastries were devoured by creatures who looked like fruit salads in their equally florid attire (ie “high society” ladies). Naturally, such experiences caused me to flee in gastronomic terror. For the curious and intrepid, I leave it to your investigative talents to hunt out and venture forth to these places. I, for one, do not deny myself pusillanimous of palate and interns.

From Temptation to Temptation

But tell you want I did find tea-tea-lating. Hilton Colombo’s High Tea buffet served on Wednesdays and Sundays at Temptations. As we all know, Oscar Wilde said, “The only way to resist temptation is to succumb to it.” And didn’t I just! It isn’t for nothing that the hotel’s pastry shop is called Fine Things. For the culinary art of this institution is an exercise in finesse. The seduction starts visually. You find yourself lured from temptation to temptation by an elegant selection, including extravaganza like delicate smoked duck squares, the classiest club sandwiches in town, roasted vegetables on rye bread, gherkin and cheese shots and, further, exotica like lamb and nut tortilla wraps and slick seafood kebabs. Aplenty too are chocolate éclairs, cheese cakes and well, all sorts of cakes… And for weight-watching fruit cakes, fresh fruit.

Incidentally, this venue convenes the most comprehensive selection of fine teas in the city: 30 of Dilmah’s Gastronomic Designer Teas. A tea connoisseur’s paradise. But a coffee drinker’s too. For the hotel uses “proper” Italian Illy coffee to make the best coffees. Try the knock-out frappes. As for the tea service (I mean the china), it is as smart as the service itself, headed by the telepathic managers Daya Perera and Saman Gamage who anticipate your every need. Unfurls then an epicurean serenade played to the delicious strains of live piano. And accompanying is the astonishing view.

A glass façade frames lovely lotus ponds with its sculpted trees, enchanting flora and fauna, including gracefully gliding swans. I must say this is the first time I have seen a black swan. And yonder beyond, the thatched roofs of Curry Leaf restaurant evoke rural idyll. Would you believe this visual fiesta as you’re plonked atop the plushest cushion of the chicest tea lounge in town? And amidst you, an international elite. Although, it is difficult to separate the ambassadors, VIPs and expats from tourists…

The icing on the cake for me though: the crispest crepes prepared by young Chef Sanath Kumarasiri, straight out of the pastry kitchen. They are so ethereal I even had three: a savoury crepe filled with mushroom and corn ragout, chocolate crepe and the Sri Lankan delicacy spiced Pol Pani crepe. It worked! Indeed, I think I am addic-tea-d to chef’s crepes. Trouble is, I am leaving Sri Lanka soon. I think I am just going to have to kidnap the chef!

Hilton’s High Tea

Hilton’s might be the highest costing high tea in Colombo. But then, perfection comes at a price. And it’s Christmas, so go on, treat yourself. And the little ones too. It is never too early to cultivate a child’s palate (that’s why you spot kids at Michelin-starred restaurants these days…). 

However, for youngsters more comfortable with the more usual short eats, try high tea at Cinnamon Lake. Lower prices afford accessibility. And the offering is daily. Their forte is quantity: items are variously assembled, including spring rolls, patties, vadais, sandwiches, buns, pastried and the like.  Also, the very Sri Lankan pizza (cubes of meet or vegetables slapped thickly with melted cheese). For those who could have it, there was the anachronistic sushi. I am unsure if sushi at 4 pm is a fashion statement. Also presented were scones, although they resembled little in flavour or texture the authentic English delicacy. However, whatever these snowed-under (icing sugar) little things were, I rather liked them. Even had two. And observed on one side of me a party of kids and on the other elderly ladies having a tittle-tattle over cuppa, and lots of cake.

So decadent, so naughty but oh so a necessi-Tea!

Want to experience Sri-Lankan tea-time? See Travel Intelligence's listings for luxury hotels in Sri Lanka.

Or check out some more of our travel writers' picks of the world's best places for afternoon tea.