Hervey Bay Whalewatching by Daniel Scott

Imagine a mammal the weight of eleven elephants rising full out of the sea and sploshing back down again with visible delight. Picture now the same gentle giant, in tandem with a smaller creature (perhaps a mere three elephants in weight) roll effortlessly through the calm blue water and flap their huge tails in the air before descending once more into the depths. Finally imagine you are just metres away from it all, on a boat barely half as big as the larger beast, and you now have some idea of the magic of the Hervey Bay whalewatching experience.

Formed by the long arm of Fraser Island to the south and the craggy contour of the mainland coast to the west, Hervey Bay is quite simply one of the best places in the world to see humpback whales. Each year and in increasing numbers they come here between August and October, stopping off on their 5000 kilometre journey back to their Antarctic feeding grounds, after giving birth and mating further north. In Hervey Bay’s mild waters they recover their strength, prepare their calves for the odyssey ahead and have the time of their lives, frolicking, leaping and generally exhibiting an infectious sense of play.

What’s so special about the whale encounters in the Bay is that it’s sometimes hard to know who is watching who. Boats are often “mugged” or “kidnapped” by a group of whales, meaning that the happy-go-lucky humpbacks have chosen to come in close, seemingly quite relaxed in the presence of their adoring fans. While they are always carefully approached and a distance of 100 metres respectfully kept by the whalewatching operators, it is their choice to draw nearer to the boats.

To see a 15 metre humpack - it is the fifth largest of the great whales - at such close quarters, is awe-inspiring. You can almost feel the spray as it exhales water out of its blowhole at up to 400 km an hour. And with the guidance of a well-informed commentator you can start to really observe and understand its frisky behaviour, soon learning the difference between a “breach”, a “tail flap” and a “pectoral slap”. You can also clearly discern its individual markings and sometimes even hear its clicks and squeaks of communication.

Whether or not you encounter humpbacks - and in inclement weather there is a possibility that you won’t - a half-day in the Hervey Bay Marine Park is time well spent. Not only is there an odds on chance of encountering other marine creatures such as dolphins, turtles and even dugongs but also the views of the west coast of idyllic Fraser Island are highly enticing. If you’re not staying there already then the probability, once you’ve seen it from the sea, is that you’ll want to visit.

You can have the best of both worlds by staying on Fraser Island at the Kingfisher Bay resort. Here you get to experience the many wonderful facets of the island and indeed stay in the lap of luxury and you can also join one of their excellent daily whalewatching trips. These are not only conducted with the care you’d expect of this eco-sensitive resort but have the added benefit of a commentary from a dedicated marine ranger.

Many of the other licensed whalewatching outfits are based at Urangan Pier on the mainland, including that operated by Elle Macpherson’s sister Mimi, and all are well equipped to show you the whales. Each August, to celebrate the return of the humpacks to Hervey Bay, there’s also a two week Whale Festival held in the area, which includes an aquatic carnival.

With its protected waters, good beaches and excellent fishing and diving there’s much more to Hervey Bay than its whalewatching industry.

But few sights in life compare with that of a cavorting 40 tonne humpback and her calf revelling in this nurserycumplayground of a bay. To them, you’ll feel sure, life’s a breach.