Hanoi and Halong Bay by Julie Miller

Tai chi is known as the most graceful martial art, where the body functions smoothly and fluidly. It is a cleansing, meditative discipline, and best performed at dawn in a pristine environment. What better place to indulge in this ancient practice than on the deck of a boat in the middle of Halong Bay, Vietnam, surrounded by some of the most sublime scenery in the world?!

The sky is pastel pink, streaked with orange, softening to a duck-egg blue. The emerald sea mirrors the soaring limestone cliffs on the myriad of islands, mysterious grottos shrouded in the soft morning mist. A lone fisherwoman, debecked in a conical hat, rows her longboat towards a floating village, her morning’s work complete. It is a setting worthy of the gods.

But where is the co-ordination, the balance? A tai chi virgin, my feet feel like plodding size nines, my arms like leaden weights as I valiantly attempt to follow the master’s directions. “Your right arm is the eagle, your left is the cobra. Then sweep your right hand to your left, and bring them together like you are holding a soccer ball...” Only trouble is, my eagle is a seagull, my cobra a lizard and my ‘soccer’ resembles a watermelon. How do they make it look so easy?

Four hours later in the city of Hanoi, I am faced with an even greater test of co-ordination – the simple act of crossing the road. Once again, I am all hands and feet, limbs and brain totally out of whack. I step, I withdraw, I stumble. There is an art to this, and, like tai chi, I must learn from the masters.

The trick to crossing the road in Vietnam is not to look. No “look left, look right, look left again” – the old schoolyard adage will only leave you stranded permanently on the curb. The trick is to ignore your senses and every instinct – forget about the blasting horns, the motorbikes whooshing past, the sea of vehicles approaching – and simply step out into the fray in blind faith.

After a few false starts, I follow the lead of the locals, and simply walk. Straight. Across. I try not to look at the mayhem around me. I wince with every passing horn. But miraculously, the sea of traffic seems to part, as motorbikes, scooters, cyclos and bicycles anticipate my mission and make their way around me. I am just another obstacle on the road, one which they take in their stride. I make it safely to the other side and feel chuffed at the achievement.

Despite the apparent chaos on the roads, Hanoi is a physically easy city to encounter. The air is breathable, the noise bearable, the pollution minimal. The smell of baking bread, burning incense and fresh market produce permeates delightful alleyways, characterised by exotic Asian touches against a backdrop of French colonial splendour. Colourful shops, resplendent with silk, lanterns and lacquerware are a dangerous temptation, while culinary delights beckon in every direction.

Hanoi, capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, has emerged in the 21st century as a sophisticated, prosperous city, fuelled by foreign investment and a resurgence in tourism. But despite the overwhelming abundance of stylish coffee shops and designer jewellery, gift and clothing boutiques, the heart and soul of Hanoi is still the Old Quarter, with its lively alleyways selling everything from spices to gravestones.

Navigating the intricate maze of this 1000 year-old microcosm is a fascinating experience. Each street has its own specialty – the main drag, for instance, is Hang Gai or Silk Street, where you can buy everything from tailor-made ‘ao dai’s (the elegant traditional Vietnamese pantsuits – around US$25, whipped up in just a day) to scarves and silk sleeping bags. Across the road – if you can negotiate the crossing – you’ll find Tin Street, Lantern Street, rows of herb sellers, beautiful Vietnamese shoes... it really is a shopper’s paradise, if you don’t mind having to search for what you want.

For an overall perspective of the Old Quarter, it’s advisable to start your shopping expedition on a cyclo (bicycle rickshaw) – the drivers will take you on a loop of the main sights, allowing you to get your bearings and plan your attack. This leisurely view of the city also allows fantastic photo opportunities, as well as being a fun introduction to Vietnamese culture.

Dominating the streetscape of Hanoi are charming French colonial facades, the legacy of a 100 years of French rule. Above the ground-level shops soar three or four storey apartments with elegant balconies decorated with iron lace, distressed paintwork, plantation shutters and overflowing greenery; while on a grander scale, there is the magnificent Opera House and the classical white exterior of the Metropole Hotel, the smartest historic hotel in the city.

However, it is a building of a very different architecture style that has become the symbol of this northern city. Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum is a severe and imposing monument in true Soviet tradition, bleak and grey, surrounded by a vast, empty square. This building, which houses the body of Vietnam’s most beloved leader, has become a symbol of the national struggle for freedom. Locals consider it a place of pilgrimage, and often line up for hours to view the embalmed body of the great ‘Uncle Ho’, lying under lights with his peaceful, patrician expression on display for all eternity.

Foreigners keen to pay their respects are privileged with a separate (and faster) entry line to the locals. There is a strict code of conduct for anyone entering the mausoleum – no shorts, mini-skirts, hats or singlet tops, no photography, no hands in pockets and definitely no talking. Guards in crisp white uniforms are quick to chastise anyone breaking these rules, and the continuous line of visitors is ushered quickly past the embalmed body, with no opportunity to linger over the rather macabre sight.

Ironically, it was Ho’s request that he be cremated on his death, in keeping with his simple lifestyle. Proof of this is just a short walk from the mausoleum, where his charming wooden stilt house is located in parklands overlooking a peaceful lake. Ho lived here during the 10 years preceding his death, and it has been preserved exactly how he left it – with books, typewriter and traditional Vietnamese artefacts scattered around, the austerity and tastefulness standing in marked contrast to his final resting place.

Another peaceful enclave in bustling city surrounds is the Temple of Literature, a Confucian temple dating back to 1070 AD. This was the country’s first university, a place of education for an elite minority lucky enough to be accepted into its hallowed halls. Students who achieved doctorates had their names displayed on 82 slabs set on the back of stone tortoises, which today are considered the most precious artefacts in the temple.

After a busy day shopping and sightseeing, there is no better way to recharge your batteries than in one of Hanoi’s fantastic restaurants and cafes. The culinary scene is varied, affordable and delectable, including traditional Vietnamese, French and international offerings. First-time visitors must try the Vietnamese staple, Pho (pronounced ‘fur’) – spicy, herby noodle soup, served freshly mixed with chilli and lemon – simply delicious! Less attractive to western tastes is another delicacy – Thit Cho, or dog. Only the very brave and unsentimental need apply – but by all accounts, this ‘festive’ meal, widely available in street stalls and roadside cafes, is gamey, flavoursome and fuels courage and strength.

More applicable to Australian tourists is a restaurant named Koto, which stands for ‘Know One, Teach One’. Started by ex-pat Aussie-Vietnamese Jimmy Pham, Koto trains street kids in the art of hospitality, taking them off the streets and giving them hope for the future. Jimmy’s philosophy is that if everyone helps one person who in turn helps another, then you’ve made a difference. His philanthropy and generosity has helped over 130 underprivileged teenagers turn their lives around during the restaurant’s four years of operation.

If the exquisite gastronomy of Vietnam tantilises your tastebuds, you may like to take the experience one step further at the Metropole Hotel’s Cooking School. A half-day course includes a visit to a local market to select fresh ingredients, followed by a cooking demonstration and lunch. Recipes include Vietnamese Spring Rolls, delicately wrapped in rice paper and served with fish sauce, chilli and papaya; grilled chicken skewers wrapped in lemon leaves; and marinated pork grilled in bamboo. Satisfaction, a full stomach and a new zest for experimentation in the kitchen are guaranteed!

While the parks, temples and pagodas are a pleasant diversion from Hanoi’s crazy traffic and bustling markets, true serenity is found further afield – at magical Halong Bay, 170 km east of Hanoi. With over 3000 islands rising up from clear emerald waters, this is truly a location worthy of its World Heritage listing, comparable in its beauty and mystery to Guilin or the limestone cliffs of Krabi. Most tourists choose at least an overnight boat-trip to experience the islands at their most captivating – at sunrise and sunset, when the calm waters mirror the soaring limestone outcrops.

According to legend, the islands, grottoes and cliffs were created by a giant dragon that lived in the mountains. As it ran towards the coast, its flailing tail carved out valleys and crevasses, which filled with water as the dragon plunged headlong into the sea. This creature is said to still inhabit the waters, a mythical beast known as the Tarasque, the local version of the Loch Ness Monster.

However, as our luxury steamer, The Emeraude, sat becalmed on the jewelled sea, it seemed impossible that any creature, great or small, could disturb the peace of this idyllic environment. A soft mist enveloped the fantastical rock formations; the glassy water was still, rippled only by the odd fishing boat setting off from colourful floating villages dotted along the shores of the islands. A cluster of red-sailed traditional junks, the overnight abode of backpackers and romantics, were moored across the bay, shining like lanterns in the morning sun. Grottoes, caves and beaches beckoned, to be explored at leisure in kayaks. And then there was the tai chi session on the top deck.

The Emeraude is a magnificent vessel, a replica paddlesteamer which encapsulates the traditions of seafaring of French Indochina. This is the most luxurious boat plying the bay, with comfortable air-conditioned cabins, first-class meals and gorgeous views from the canopied upper deck. Skippered by a gruff Aussie captain, it offers two day cruises of the Bay, including a visit to Sung Sot grotto and water activities including swimming off the back deck and kayak hire. This trip is not cheap, but it is certainly romantic and arguably the most comfortable way of experiencing this special place.

There is a popular saying: - “One has not been to Vietnam unless they’ve been to Halong Bay.” Combine that experience with a mouth-watering meal, a day exploring the markets of Old Hanoi, and the harmonious discipline of tai chi and you have a Vietnamese experience definitely worth savouring.