Guide to Kowloon, Hong Kong by Cynthia Rosenfeld

Gone are the grannies in black cotton slippers and singlet clad old men pedalling trickshaws around Kowloon’s Victoria Harbour front neighbourhood known as Tsim Sha Tsui or TST. This jam packed peninsula pulsates around the clock with an exciting array of new and renewed hotels, hot nightspots and super cool destination shops.

Hullett House

TST’s colonial police station built in 1881 has been stylishly morphed into an unexpected combination of five delectable eateries plus ten completely unique, sprawling suites, all with generous terraces and 13 to 16 foot ceilings. In the mornings, take homemade breads and fluffy warm croissants on the verandah of The Parlour. Inside, the Dragon Bar’s ceiling is festooned with the fantasy creature that symbolizes Hong Kong while old holding cells have been refashioned as private drinking rooms at The Mariner’s Rest. (2A Canton Road)

Mira Hotel & Spa

Formerly known as the Miramar, this one time has been now sparkles thanks to Oprah’s own go to guy Colin Cowie. 492 hip guestrooms feature the latest in room high tech gadgetry plus a Nokia mobile phone for guest’s use around town. Singapore’s hottest chef, Justin Quek heads the kitchen at the low lit super sexy Whisk where this town’s trendiest types rev up before chilling out around the gas fire at Vibes, the photogenic courtyard lounge. Make time for Mira Spa’s signature Oriental Bliss treatment with warm honey, crushed ginger and ground rice powder in the seven room spa. (Level B3, 118 Nathan Road)

Hyatt Regency Hong Kong

Back and better than ever is this long time favourite, reopened on levels 3-24 of one of Kowloon’s tallest skyscrapers. All 381 guestrooms command eye-popping views of Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong Island or bustling Kowloon but locals and visiting gourmands flock here to dine at Hugo’s, one of HK’s oldest and still best loved European eateries. (18 Hanoi Road)

Busy Suzie

Brand new on the TST dining scene from the founder of HK’s perennially hot dragon-i nightclub, this throbbing robata bar does a mean grilled foie gras and succulent sushi that’s just jetted in from Japan. Expensive suited executives linger late into the night on the outdoor patio while their high heeled dates sip exotic hued cocktails. (Shop 209, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road)

Brother & Sister Concept Store & Café

Actual siblings Gilbert & Cindy Yeung bring a bevy of until now unseen in HK brands like Cowshed ultra organic body products, Greedy Genius psychedelic sneakers and Dita superstar shades, to this concept spot complete with invitingly large, plush leather chairs and sofas plus a chic cocktail bar. (B-02, Basement, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road)