Great British Escapes: Isle of Thanet by Stephen Emms
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Why Go Now?
Last year the Isle of Thanet – a misnomer really, as since the late 17th century, it’s been part of the mainland – was awarded a European Blue Flag for no less than 10 of its sandy beaches. Visit now, and it’s still possible to enjoy a wide bay to yourself and not too hot to walk or cycle around the 26-mile coast – the longest continuous stretch of chalk cliffs in the country. Thanet’s three neighbouring towns are each satisfyingly different, too:
Broadstairs, with its curving bay and cute jetty, is the classic seaside haunt, Ramsgate flirts with a continental alfresco culture centred around the royal harbour, and world-weary Margate, the UK’s first-ever resort, is being buffed shiny again by arts-led regeneration.
Don’t Miss
The art scene in Margate is gathering pace. Head to the pleasingly-repainted former M&S store, or the galleries on the newly spruced-up harbour arm, at whose tip perches a nine-foot Shell Lady.
Broadstairs hosts a panoply of summer festivals, from its celebration of Charles Dickens, who famously holidayed here, to its popular Folk Week (Aug 7-14) and Food Festival (Sept 29 – Oct 4). And don’t leave Thanet without lounging on one of its many blue-flag beaches – best is Botany Bay, with Algarve-like caves and white cliffs.
Where To Eat
After a potter round Margate’s old town, head to No 6, a brasserie in the attractive marketplace serving local fare. Broadstairs’ marine parade is rather unexciting for the gastronome, so grab lunch instead at the lovely Oscar Road cafe, a BYO wine joint which offers specialities like lobster rolls (call first), doorstep crab sandwiches, and, best of all, exquisite cupcakes.
The finest restaurant in Thanet, however, is Age & Sons, a three-story conversion of a former wine importer in a hidden courtyard behind the seafront. The ground floor houses an all-day deli, whilst the upstairs restaurant serves wrigglingly-fresh fish with seasonal flavours. Don’t miss one of co-owner Harriet Leigh’s mind-blowing espresso martinis in the basement bar after dinner.
The Perfect Pub
The Thanet coast is dotted with fascinating boozers, from Margate’s creaking haunts (its oldest pub, frequented by the artist Turner, is the Northern Belle) to Ramsgate’s waterside bar culture (best is the boho Belgian Café). But the 17th-century Belle Vue, perched on a cliff top, is top choice for breath-taking views over the Pegwell Bay Nature Reserve from its sunny terrace.
Retail Therapy
Broadstairs’ Albion Street’s independent shops make a pleasant rummage on a lazy Saturday afternoon, whilst Margate Old Town has an increasing number of boutiques, including Ingoldsby Inland, and Quex Barn is a stylish daily farmers’ market with fishmonger, deli, butchers and restaurant near Birchington.
Take A Hike
Turner famously said that Thanet had the loveliest skies in Europe, so decide for yourself with an easygoing eight-mile walk along the geologically rich coastal path from Ramsgate to Margate, where you can watch the red dollop of sun set from the BeBeached Café on the jetty. At Broadstairs, you could make a diversion up to the historic neighbouring village of St Peter’s for its award-winning village tour brought to life by costumed characters.
Take The Family
Kids will love the Shell Grotto in Margate, a 2000 sq ft subterranean temple boasting 4.6 million shells. A genuine wonder of the world, it lurks under a suburban back street, and was discovered in 1835 by a young boy, Joshua Newlove. Alternatively, shower the kids with old-fashioned childhood memories: donkey rides, Punch & Judy or helter skelter on Broadstairs’ Viking Bay, or simply catching crabs in rock pools.