Grand Hotel Jeanne D’Arc by Jamie Dunford Wood

There is certainly nothing ‘grand’ about the Jeanne d’Arc, but this simple hotel so beloved of the guidebooks has two major factors going for it. First, the location, in the heart of the Marais, and just around the corner from the charming Place du Marche du St Catherine; and second, the owner of ten years, Gayle, who understands perfectly what attention to detail it takes to get your hotel written up in all the right places and full forever more. However, complaints are occasionally received about the offhand service here - at a recent inspection the receptionist was busily smoking behind the desk, and one reader has complained about the unfriendly and uncompromising attitude of 'Madame'. It is very hard to book, being full most of the time, so perhaps their success is making them lazy.

The building itself is an old townhouse, pretty from the outside, and the reception rooms - one for checking in and borrowing dog-eared books, the other for eating breakfast in, are light and welcoming. Ancient iron banisters lead the way up wonky stairs, where the decoration is in the ‘Jocasta Innes colourwash’ school, cheap to apply but super-effective in brightening up drab rooms, leaving the ancient wooden lintels exposed. Nothing fancy, however. Fabrics are plain but smart, the sort you find in the Parisian store Madura, and there is the odd exposed stone wall, on which hang cheap but colourful prints. Stenciling has been added to some rooms, and the whole tone is fresh, clean and pretty, if lacking in character. They vary in size, but the biggest of them are certainly generous.

Bathrooms are basic but adequate. There is no a/c, but the street is light on traffic. It lacks the elegance and character of the Langlois, the views of the Esmeralda and the zaniness of the Nestle, but wins points on location.