Going to Church, Tonga Style by Susan Miles

If I was writing the new tourism slogan for the Kingdom of Tonga it would be ‘Come to Tonga and go to church!’ While not suggesting that Tonga turn its beautiful churches and inspiring mass and services into tourist attractions, this experience captures much of what is unique about this pacific nation.

Visitors should therefore pack alongside their beachwear and snorkel gear, their Sunday best and make time between lying on the beach and swimming in the crystal clear waters to attend Church – Tongan style.

I have received a recommendation to attend service at the Centenary Chapel in the capital Nuku’alofa, on the main island of Tongatapu. This church with its beautiful surrounds and central location offers the added attraction of a touch of royal watching, being the freshly crowned monarch’s, King George Tupou V, choice for Sunday worship. Resorts have caught onto the appeal of the chapel with the islands new Liku’alofa Resort offering amongst its excursions, return transfers to and from the chapel for the 10.00am Sunday service.

I find myself instead an hour by boat from the island of Tongatapu on Sunday morning, on the compact island of Atata. The island is home to the friendly Royal Sunset Island Resort, with its beachside fales and Saturday night Tongan dance show, and a small fishing village. I have the choice of attending either the Free Wesleyan Church or the Free Tongan Church that jointly serve this village of some 200 residents.

In other villages my choice would be even wider, with the addition of the Seventh Day Adventist, Mormon, Catholic, Constitutional and Methodist churches offering Sunday worship. All the churches share a common distinction, whether in the capital or on outer islands, the buildings are maintained in pristine and immaculate condition.

While initially taken aback by the sight of churches occasionally behind locked gates, closer inquiry revealed that this is merely a practical solution to the problem of continuously foraging village pigs.

Missionaries first visited Tonga in the early 1800’s, with The Christanity Landing place on Tongatapu commemorating the first celebration of the holy sacrament in 1826. Embracing the early missionary message, Tonga has embedded church going into their family centred way of life.

Nearly all businesses and facilities shutdown on a Sunday, the only sounds that can be heard are the village church bells that ring at regular intervals in the lead up to the start of each service. On some Sunday’s there can be as many as four services throughout the day.

As I enter the Atata Island Free Wesleyan Church, the congregation is warming up, filling the simple wooden building with beautiful choral sung hymns. There is no organ or piano to accompany the singing. Just a choir mistress, resplendent in her black dress covered by a Taovala, a traditional wrap made from woven pandanus leaves, leading the harmonious singing with aid of a pitch pipe and baton.

The village children occupy the first three pews, singing with enthusiasm and without aid of either hymn books or song sheets, contributing their pure, sweet voices to the musical worship.

The girls wear colorful dresses with matching hair ribbons, a kieke, a belted woven decoration about their waists adds a traditional touch. With the exception of one little boy who unrolls himself from his Taovala wrap garment and receives some harsh words from his father as he is ‘rewrapped’, the children show remarkable patience during the hour and a half long service.

The singing is blended and interspersed with prayers, readings and sermon, all in Tongan. The music however dominates proceedings and provides a joyous, uplifting sentiment.

Our minister, a skilled orator, delivers a rousing sermon. Punctuated with booming phrases, and purposeful silences, his lesson transcends any language barrier and it is clear that we are to take heed to the message delivered.

The service concludes with a natural guard of honor forming as the congregation departs. In difference to seniority, the elders of the community leaving their pews first, turning and offering warm greetings to locals and visitors alike as they head out to the church verandah.

Strolling through the village later in the afternoon, the stillness of a quiet Sunday afternoon is suddenly broken with harmonious voices filling the air. My fellow parishioners have returned to church - there is another service to attend and more music to be made.