The Gellert Hotel by Graeme Harwood

I’ve embroidered the title of this place by two extra words – as the hotel itself feels that ‘GELLERT’ alone, albeit in capital letters, is quite sufficient to let you know that you’ve arrived at the doors of a legend. Sadly, however, this erstwhile Grande Dame of Budapest hotels, one time host to Emperors and below, is now prone to some crotchety moods. Sometimes still gracious and atmospheric, the Gellert is at other times penny-pinching and dilapidated. On first sight, the scruff exterior was a bit of a shock, as was finding that my room had a very narrow bed with just a simple duvet and one useless pillow (no re-enforcements in any of the cupboards) and no air-conditioning. It must be said, too, that whilst the façade (1918), the lobby, the bar and the Baths (1934) are historically appealing, too much of the rest is starkly reminiscent of 1950s communism - e.g. the ‘gift shop’ being no more than a glass case in a corridor. Take a Superior Room, again high-up on the Danube side for £127/$240 a night DB and B and the Gellert might work for you, especially if the nostalgic attraction of staying in a fabled institution is going to draw you to it, like a moth to a flame. Entrance to the famous Baths is included in the price – but, overall, too many moths and not enough flames. I so wanted to fall in love with the Gellert but felt I ended up with an on-off affair. Still can’t forget it, though. And maybe you’ll want to stay here just to say you have.