Exploring the Polish Coast by Vijai Maheshwari

The tri-city chain of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia on Poland’s Baltic Coast are more known for their tragic history than their joi de vivre. World War II began here on a musty fall afternoon on Sep 1st, 1939 when Hitler’s troops stormed the Westerplatte garrisson and declared the annexation of this former Prussian colony. During the 80s, the Gdansk shipyards were a midwife to the anti-Soviet Solidarity movement, and home to its walrus-mustachioed leader Lech Walesa. Since Poland became independent in 1989 though, the bucolic cities on the sea have benefited from the country’s fast economic growth and have been spruced up and modernized. While visitors come to the gorgeous, former Prussian city of Gdansk all year round, the region booms in the summertime when Poles and others head to the seaside in droves. On a recent weekend in early August, Sopot, the summer capital of the three cities, was pullulating with holidayers, including a strong Britpop contingent who had flown in for a Morcheeba concert.

What is There to Do?

History buffs would go ga-ga over the place, just as Gunther Grass did in his elegy to Gdansk (formerly Danzig) in his first novel, The Tin Drum. They might visit the 1950s-futurist wrought iron monument to the Defenders of the Polish Post Office, who fought off the Nazis for a heroic 14 hours. Or stroll into the Grand Hotel in Sopot, where Hitler spent a weekend during the invasion of Poland, with its majestic colonnaded portico. Gdansk, the largest city of the three, is chock-a-full of monuments—including one to the Fallen Shipyard Workers, consisting of three giant crosses forged from ship steel. But most tourists would rather just take the easier option and stroll through the town, which has been almost completely rebuilt since the War. Once part of the Prussian empire and a port city in the Hanseatic league for centuries, it has the cutesy, intimate feel of Amsterdam or Stockholm. The Flemish-influenced buildings are narrow and topped off by triangular gables shaped like a bishop’s cowl. There are plenty of canals and quays and quirky streets like Beer Ulica with wrought-iron stoops and antique shops. And lots of medieval towers and Gothic gates and walled islands to boot.

What About the Beach?

Gdansk might have its historic resonances for some—especially for the busloads of ancient Germans who come visiting—but most flock here in the summertime for the quiet, sandy beaches and a swim in the shallow Baltic Sea. Sun worshippers are better off heading to neighboring Sopot, where a large, partly-enclosed quay slopes gently into the sea. The air is sprite and cinammon-scented from all the chocolate-smeared waffles the Poles have a special penchant for. There are cafes and beer gardens a plenty, selling cheap and frothy Zywiec Polish beer and fried flounder. Smoked eels are also popular, and so are white borscht and kielbasa, the Polish version of bratwurst. The beach itself is a undulating spread of white sand that never gets too crowded, even during the hot afternoons. The Baltic Sea might not be as sparkling blue as the Mediterranean but its tout-free as of yet and you don’t have to hustle for a spot near the water. (Plus, the lucky bather might stumble across some of that famous Baltic amber!) Come evening, Sopot comes alive as Viva, Sphinks and other nightclubs—which often host DJs from the UK—start filling up and the bars on the main drag of Sopot, Ulica Monte Cassino, rev into action.

Partying on the Baltic Sea

One hears a lot of tripe about the 'Slavic soul‘ in Poland and while most of the babble is just an excuse to get plastered on their fantastic bison grass-flavored Zubrovka vodka, it does start to ring true around four in the morning. The Poles might not be famous for their cars or watches or their Royalty, but they do seem to excel at partying. Clubs stay open all night, the drinks are cheap—just over a quid for a mixed drink and less for a beer—and patrons are more friendly and loqacious than pretentious. None of the posing and one-upmanship of Majorca or the Italian resorts like Rimini here. Sopot is fast gaining a reputation as a ‚Little Ibiza‘ with its house clubs, stunning women and raucous parties. Eccentricity is tolerated, nay encouraged here, especially in the jazzy artist bars like Sportiv where pissed-up bohemians just crawl under the couches for a snooze sometimes. For the more well-heeled, there are the numerous casinos, upscale jazz bars and deluxe fish restaurants that are springing up as the coast tries to recapture its jet-set life of the early 30s, when it was a cosmopolitan and independent city state.

Gdynia, the most recent adjust to the tri-city area, lacks the glamour or sophistication of either Sopot or Gdansk. Rather, it is more a jumble of high-rish buildings that have been built to accomodate the growing population of the region. However, its relatively pristine beaches are less crowded than its counterparts elsewhere, and it has good deals for hotels. With its train station being revamped, it is also turning into a transport hub for travelers venturing further east. Also, some claim that Gdynia does have the best restaurants in the area, with more authentic Polish food.

Where to Stay?

The Art Nouveau Grand Hotel with its imposing façade and swank rooms with terraces and fantastic views of the sea should be first choice for those with generous budgets. For some old world ambience, try the frayed-around-the-edges Hotel Maryla, which was once Kaiser Wilhelm II’s summer residence. The rambling house opens onto a swimming pool and tennis courts, and has a nice, homey atmosphere. Rooms are cheap, but scarce. Be sure to book ahead. Visitors who prefer the big-city ambience of Gdansk should consider the sleek Podewils Hotel with its whirlpool baths and internet access.

Getting There

Since British Airways downsized its European destinations, there are no direct flights to the Polish coast. Most tourists from the UK fly to the capital Warsaw on either LOT, Lufthansa or BA, and then take a fast, four-hour train to the seaside. Trains from Warsaw to the coast run every three hours or so. There are also flights direct to Gdansk from Frankfurt, Warsaw or Copenhagen. Flights from London to Warsaw are relatively cheap if booked ahead.