Exploring Little Cayman by Hal Peat

How does a small, flat island like Little Cayman come to have its own unmistakable character and flavor? Man, history and nature have all contributed their stamp here; the result is a serene environment which in spite of the limitations of geography still offers much in the way of either adventure or relaxation. 

The surface statistics about Little Cayman do not provide much in terms of what the traveler eventually come away with: the island is only ten miles long and about one mile wide, inhabited by just around 170 residents (though some hereabout will tell you sometimes as low as 100).  In fact, solitude is one key in understanding the ambiance of Little Cayman, and this has nothing to do with its tiny resident population. 

Many of the part-time residents have been drawn to this most remote of the Cayman Islands largely due to its extremely quiet, low-key lifestyle.  For those coming here to both decompress and re-energize amongst unspoiled nature, that sense of escape can become an unforgettable aspect of any stay, even while the island’s small resorts make water or land activity just as easily accessible.  

Water Sport: Above and Beneath the Waves

Little Cayman has long been a mecca for diving and scuba enthusiasts, thanks to the variety and excellence of the numerous dive locations found on both sides of the island. Just off Blossom Village, the island’s main town, is a protected marine park with top dive sites with names like Grundy Gardens, Windsock, Harlod’s Holes, Jay’s Reef, Patty’s Point, Pirate’s Reef or Preston Reef. 

It is the northern coast that has long been the favored stretch for diving expeditions. Here lies Bloody Bay Wall, rated one of the best dive sites in the world. The drop begins at just 18 feet and then descends to over 1,000 feet, with clear visibility extending that can extend to 150 feet.  The Wall is thick with sponges and coral and is also home to many formations - chimneys, canyons and coral arches - you may even spot the rare longsnout seahorse hereabouts. 

Also nearby are sites such as Nancy’s Cup of Tea, The Meadows, Marilyn’s Cut, Randy’s Gazebo, and Jackson Reef, each with its own physical attributes and range of marine life.  Randy’s, for instance, is notable for its tunnels and swim-throughs, along with a natural arch.  The Meadows is a place of small caverns and overhangs. Shallower sites such as Nancy’s, The Meadows and Jackson Reef are also ideal for snorkeling excursions.
 
Of the three islands in its group, Little Cayman also remains the ideal destination for the skilled angler who wants to sample a variety of action.  Year round, depending on weather conditions, fishing enthusiasts can catch bonefish weighing an average of three to six pounds, tarpon weighing up to 20 pounds in the land-locked brackish interior ponds, and permit weighing up to 35 pounds caught in the flats of the north and south coasts. 

Just a few minutes offshore, there is seemingly endless opportunity for rod-fishing for tuna, wahoo or marlin.  Although there is good deep sea fishing right offshore, Little Cayman’s attraction for anglers is light tackle and fly-fishing. Interested anglers must bring their own fly-fishing equipment, but other light tackle gear is available locally. The largest schools can be found in the shallow areas of South Hole Sound near Owen Island.  Bonefish can be spotted in patches of water known as muds, where the sea looks milky from the constant churning of the fish feeding at the bottom. 

Land Adventure and Other Island Discoveries

Exploring Little Cayman on foot or by bike is easy: with its flat grade, walking is the most common way to get around, and the local hotels usually have bikes on-hand. For more extensive touring during the most humid months, take as much advantage as possible of the cool of the morning.

One point at which to begin a hike is on the southwestern corner of the island at the mile-long Salt Rock Nature Trail: along the way, you may spot such plant life as orchids, cacti, and mahogany trees, while taking shelter amidst the flora and fauna are iguanas and blue land crabs, along with many of the regional bird species. 

Little Cayman has over eight miles of paved road and even the unpaved surfaces are good enough for a mountain bike. A must-see near Blossom is the 206-acre Booby Pond Nature Reserve with its Visitors Centre. From the Centre’s open decks, you can watch the largest breeding colony of red-footed boobies, along with competing colonies of frigate birds and occasional snowy egrets, herons or ducks.  The Centre also operates a small library, gift shop and coffee bar.  While in the vicinity, look in also at the Little Cayman Museum, a two-room cottage that explains much of the island’s human and natural history over the centuries.

Proceed along Little Cayman’s main road on the southern shoreline heading north-easterly, and you will pass shallow ponds lined with low-growth vegetation that serves as home to various bird species. Another favorite along the way for naturists is Tarpon Lake, a brackish huge pond that also draws anglers fishing for the resident tarpon. Herons and duck perch on the observation deck nearby, while an occasional giant iguana may peer out from the roadside. 

You can conclude your outward journey here at Sandy Point Beach, an isolated but lovely strip of beach ideal for a picnic lunch or snorkeling and sunbathing.  An alternate route will detour you toward the northern road, taking Crossover Road at the island’s midsection to continue northwesterly toward Bloody Bay Wall.  While in the area, you can also stop off at the Little Cayman Research Centre, a new marine field research facility that includes a visitor center for anyone interested in the reefs and marine life of Little Cayman. 

Where to Stay, More to Savor

Just about five minutes drive from the island’s one airstrip, the small diving and fishing resort of Southern Cross Club has been welcoming water sport enthusiasts for over four decades. A collection of 12 cottages and suites together with a main building that includes bar, restaurant, and indoor and outdoor deck lounges, plus a small fresh water swimming pool. 

Southern Cross Club has slowly evolved into an idyllic stayover for not only scuba divers and anglers, but anyone who can appreciate the type of low-key hideaway where comfort, activity, and good company all flow seamlessly together. Nowadays, Southern Cross Club has also developed its daily operations to more green-conscious energy use, having endured and recovered from the recent trials of nature that have struck the Cayman Islands—notably Hurricane Ivan in 2004. 

The owner responded to the loss of three beach-side cottages by constructing three new two-story structures that provide chic interiors, splendid ocean views, but still no distraction from the outside world as far as telephones or other communication. 

Its location allows Southern Cross Club guests to pick their daily activity without much pre-planning at all. So if your agenda for the morning is either diving or fishing, then it will likely begin early - around 5:30 am for deep sea angling, and by 8:00 am for morning dive outings; a second dive takes off from the Club’s jetty in the early afternoon. 

If you are in the mood to do some fishing, grab some coffee in your suite first; while divers can stop off for the lavish breakfast served up before heading to the jetty and the one of the Club’s onsite dive instructors. A half-day diving expedition may see your launch turn toward just about any one of the sites on the northern or southern coastlines.

A mix of young American, British and South African globetrotters make up the staff at Southern Cross Club and also do much of the diving instruction. You will probably discover that several of your fellow divers are dedicated enthusiasts who have been coming to these islands for years; some are not only familiar with the specific dive sites around Little Cayman but have nicknames for the ray fish, grouper or other species that haunt particular sites for lengthy periods. 

On the other hand, the small group of 6 to 12 divers on board the motor launch will never be so exclusive that you will not find first-time divers among them.  The ease of getting into diving is thanks in large part to the resort’s affiliation with the PADI diving program.  PADI’s certification program is a world-wide one that allows new divers to do their classroom instruction and pool course at locations near where they live, then take off to whatever actual destination they intend for exploring the marine depths.

For those who make it back to Southern Cross Club early enough in the day and feel up to a little more action, take one of the Club’s kayaks for a trip over to neighboring Owen Island just offshore: here you can do more snorkeling or kayaking around its perimeter, or just spend the remaining hours basking on what can only be described as a fairytale islet. 

Finally, after a day of scuba, snorkeling, angling, kayaking, or exploring the pristine swathes of beaches and inland lakes and preserves by bike or foot, the early evening happy hour on the outdoor deck or jetty at Southern Cross Club becomes a welcome time for guests to compare notes on the highlights of the day. For many, it is also an opportunity to catch up with other travelers they have met from past seasons who continue to make the trip back to Little Cayman and the resort.

This, after all, is part of the pleasure for the traveler to such a secluded part of the Caribbean: reconnecting to an intimacy that comes not only from an awareness of the treasures of the environment here, but also a familiarity with both staff and fellow guests.  To this, add the mix of newcomers among staff or guest, and the spice is there that makes each return its own special experience.