Exploring Basilicata: A Taste of Unexploited Italy by Anthea Gerrie
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La Locanda delle Donne Monache
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When any slice of Italy remains undiscovered, you have to wonder why. And given the beauty and diversity of Basilicata, it can only be down to history. The stonemasons who once worked the quarries emigrated long ago to build New York’s skyscrapers, and later, Mussolini, not content with exiling anti-Fascist activists to this wild and remote land, changed the name of the state from Lucania. Thus the instep and arch of Italy’s foot became a well-kept secret.
The Jewel in Basilicata's Crown
Now the secret is out, it would be good to visit at least Matera, the jewel in Basilicata's crown, before the hordes descend. Famous for its urban cave dwellings which have been designated a World Heritage Site, the town was made even more visible a few years ago by Mel Gibson. He filmed The Passion of the Christ here, and no wonder - there’s something quite biblical about the rocky outcrops beneath the city, and the misty horizon beyond.
The Sassi, as the caves are known, are among the earliest human settlements in the world, grottoes enlarged to become homes for both humans and their animals. But they deteriorated from the 17th century prosperity which made Matera the regional capital to become appalling 20th century slums with no electricity or running water. They were lawless, too, demanding tolls of outsiders who wished to pass through.
In spite of the poverty, there were years of rioting when the sassi were forcibly evacuated in 1956. And few families had the heart to return after the caves had been modernised, so grants now have to be offered to tempt b&b’s and restaurants help revitalise this beautiful and atmospheric area.
A Boutique Hotel in a Cave?
A fine place to enjoy the ambience is the Restaurant San Pietro Barisano, where we ate the best dinner we had in Basilicata. It was enhanced by the beautifully-lit bare stones both inside the restaurant and outside - picturesque by day, the sassi are exquisite by night. There are also boutique hotels in the caves, but none could emulate the stylishness of the Palazzo Gattini opposite the cathedral, one of Italy’s finest design hotels.
Don’t leave this area without descending a few steps to the right of the hotel for a vista or the Sassi Caveoso, or wandering across the square and down to the left to visit the charming little piazzetta containing Matera’s music school. An easy stroll through town leads to the Latteria Rizzi, a fabulous cheese boutique which offers tasting lunches with local wines in its back room.
The Foresteria di San Leo in the mountainous west of the region, is a good place to learn more about Basilicata. This “agriturismo” - a farm offering hospitality - is presided over by the fabulous Maria, who loves to share the history, culture and food of her region while her husband presides over their orchards and dairy.
Must-Sees Elsewhere
Nearby is Venosa, whch has one of the largest Jewish catacombs in western Europe, reflecting a 7th century community of artists and peddlers. A surreal sight worth taking in on the edge of town is the unfinished Trinity church - a magnificent facade, including a bell-tower, with nothing but blue sky and an endless horizon behind.
Another mountain odyssey worth the pilgrimage is Pollino National Park. Visitors come from far and wide to taste the food of Federico Valicenti, one of Italy’s best-known chefs. This rotund and hospitable chap serves fairly simple, hearty food(don’t miss the porcini lightly sauteed with egg and bacon),and the views from the terrace of his pleasingly rustic restaurant, the Luna Rossa at Terranova di Pollino, are stunning.
Less it be supposed Basilicata is all about Matera and the mountains, it actually has two strips of coastline - the flat and less interesting Ionian in the arch of Italy’s foot and the dramatic Tyrrhenian, hidden by mountains which plunge straight into the sea, on its instep. The jewel in the crown of the latter is Maratea, a mini-Amalfi of an ancient port with a pretty little village above, all narrow lanes, fountain-lined piazza and breathtaking clifftop views.
The place to perch is the excellent Locanda delle donne Monache, a mediaeval convent converted to a stylish art hotel. Perched high above the coast in the town’s pretty historic centre, it has no sense of being a beach hotel, with its pool overlooking village rooftops. The main attraction, however, is the Christ the Redeemer statue overlooking the town. With outstretched arms mimics, this white marble wonder mimics the more famous statue in Rio, and a trip to the top of the hill offers dizzying panoramic views of sea, mountains and rooftops.
Inspired to explore this oft-forgotten region? Then check out our collection of luxury hotels in Basilicata...