Essence of the Indian Ocean by Tom Kay
Featured Hotel in Grand Baie
Mauritius; 22° east, 18° south. Found at the core of the Indian Ocean, this dreamy isle sits smack in the middle of one of the most consistent swell directions in the world. The same roaring forties of the southern Ocean that brings swell to South Africa, Reunion, and the Maldives also nourish the same swells that unleash themselves against the reefs of Mauritius. Take this, add an Indian Ocean climate and a handful of quality breaks and things are looking good.
The history of the place reads more like a resume of occupying countries. The Spanish, French and Portuguese have all laid claim to the isle at some point in time, but for the last twenty or so years the people have enjoyed their independence and it feels a much better place for it. The Mauritians are friendly and easy-going, and consist of a melange of cultures gathered over time along the Spice route finally deciding to settle here at the crossroads of the Indian Ocean. Smiles abound in contrast to the neighbouring Reunion Island, where unfitting Parisian rule still exists.
Despite its reputation as an exclusive hotspot, the island still offers considerable amounts of budget accommodation. Most of this can be found in Grand Baie in the north of the island, but Tamarin also offers a few, set up be the surfers that have failed to leave.
Most waves can be found on the south-western half of the isle, and if you are fortunate enough to fly in when a swell is running you’ll get an idea of the amount of waves on offer. After hours of dodgy films, processed food and screaming babies, fresh swell lines viewed from the air seem to nourish and revive the body from within. The barrier reef of Mauritius is intermittently pierced with numerous passes offering the kind of perfect set-up to die for. Surf backside for a couple of hours before paddling over and treating yourself to a few cheeky right-handers.
The island itself was originally volcanic, and the interior of the island is still fairly mountainous. The hills are covered in sugar cane which is now the major cash crop of the place. As well as getting a feeling for the swell direction you’ll also see the numbers of extravagant hotels the island is known for.
On arrival, if you have pre-arranged car hire, head straight for Tamarin Bay. If not, take a taxi to Grand Baie, and get a car from there. Those who have seen the ‘Forgotten Island of Santosha’ will know Tamarin as an awesome left-hander. Situated near a small bay surrounded by Tamarin trees, the wave is as pure. Although not as ripable as St. Leu, the ride is one of down-the-line the speed and heart-stopping pace. If the Gods are with you, you may also be offered a chance to get out of the tropical sun from time to time. The reef onto which the wave breaks is not as contorted than that at St. Leu, and so there is no bowl section at the end of the wave; just pull off and start the long paddle out as the euphoria sinks in.
The full length of the wave is only really only felt at the 6ft mark, but it is capable of holding 10ft plus. Should you arrive and things are not happening at Tamarin do not despair, a large (usually cyclonic) swell is required to get this place firing. Take a trip from Tamarin south heading towards the prominent La Morne and keep an eye out. This ancient volcanic pillar is situated at the most southwesterly point of the island, and a good place to gauge swell size and direction. Look closely around the rock and you will also spy a number of spots, including ‘One Eyes’ named after the one-eyed hotel owner, opposite which the spot is situated. Offering both a shallow, fast, tubular right, and a slightly longer, but equally tubular left, the spot is one of the better known breaks on the island. Unless you befriend a local fisherman, be prepared for a long paddle, the reef is a good kilometre from the beach.
Travelling around Mauritius, the gentle beauty of the place is astounding. Although mountainous, its peaks have been weathered down more than those of Tahiti, giving a flowing landscape. Having checked the swell, there are a handful of spots that litter the southern half of the island and are worth a look. The majority are lefts, most are easily visible and usually uncrowded. The main road twists and winds along the spectacular coastline, which is great for keeping an eye out for spots and less so for the safety of the other drivers. If you are forced away from the coast, it is worth making the effort and minor diversion to reach the sea. We were not there for more than two separate swells, and the likelihood of a legendary break at the end of a random dust track brought to life by new conditions has to be high.
A point to consider is that there are breaks that are located in the numerous hotel grounds. The authorities are strict (rewards are given to people who report drugs to the police), and so your chances of getting into the grounds of a smart hotel will be greatly improved if you are not looking as if you have just crawled out from under or out of a bar. Failing that, mark the spot and mission it along the beach.
So there you have it. Situated where it is, it would be a cruel twist of fate if there were no waves to be found. The people are friendly, and their rich mix of cuisine and culture can only add to a trip here. If you are unlucky enough to hit a totally flat spell, the snorkelling is considered to be some of the best in the world, and within the lush interior are some breathtaking waterfalls. Having spent yourself in or out of the water, head up north to Grand Baie and treat yourselves to a hearty meal and couple or three rums.