Domaine De Valmouraine by Jamie Dunford Wood

For those seeking an authentic rural experience with a hint of comfort - just a hint, mind, this is not super-luxurious - but at a reasonable price, Domaine de Valmouriane will work well. The hotel, a converted 18thC farmhouse with just 14 rooms, is set just outside the charming town of St Remy and not far from picturesque Les Baux. The tone is super-relaxed, with mismatched chairs, good value bistro that is popular with locals, and mostly value-conscious French clients - plus the odd raucous wedding party at weekends, so advance intelligence is advisable.

The rooms reflect the relaxed attitude of the owner - not fancy and rather old fashioned, the furnishings are prettily painted but basic, and the walls are colour washed 80's style. Tea and coffee making facilities in the rooms will please Australians, and there are no tvs - CD players instead.

The rooms are all different, some have terraces - ask for Gasquet, the largest, Aubanel or, for a twin, Bosco. The hotel is set in large grounds surrounded by rocks and pines, with a pool and tennis and riding nearby. This hotel will not satisfy fluffy-towel junkies but the rest of us will enjoy not having to suffer them at breakfast.