Dining with Drama by Jill Starley-Grainger

Rising brazenly above the sombre Imperial Palace, Tokyo’s hippest eaterie, Peter at the Peninsula Hotel, has been taking the gastronomic experience to dizzy heights since it opened in September. Drama is the dish of the day here, with diners at the 24th floor restaurant literally taking centre stage. From the moment guests step into Peter’s private mood-lit lift, to their grand entrance via a raised central platform with ever-changing background scenery, to the beautiful presentation of the exquisite dishes, a meal here is a show-stopping experience.

Chef de Cuisine Patrice Martineau, plucked from the The Savoy in London, uses the freshest Japanese ingredients to create European dishes with a hint of Asiana. A light and fluffy crab charlotte sets the scene, then a butternut and Kabocha squash velouté shares the stage with a soft cinnamon meringue and caramelised salsify for a velvety smooth first act. The drama intensifies with a sweet and succulent honey-tangerine glazed Hokkaido venison loin accompanied by a pear-quince gratin. A Manjari chocolate tea and biscuit soufflé with vanilla red-bean ice cream provides a blissfully happy ending.

Oohing and aahing over every turn of events, the audience consists of savvy international jet-setters and uber-trendy Tokyo-ites, interpreting the ‘elegant casual’ dress code to mean chic Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons and even Zara, all bought around the corner in Ginza, the city’s glitzy shopping district. Arrive early for a drink at the intimate bar to get a glimpse of Tokyo before sunset, and, for a final curtain call, men should make sure to use the loos with a view to offer an unusual standing ovation.