A Different Kind of Jazz Dive by Robin Lynam

Given that Puerto Galera means in Spanish "a safe place for galleons" the conquistadors managed to sink a remarkably large number of them in the vicinity. As your fast outrigger boat glides through the Batangas Channel into one of the most beautiful natural harbours in Asia, however, it’s easy to see why. They probably just weren’t concentrating.

To describe Puerto Galera, the jewel of the Philippines’ island of Mindoro, as "unspoiled" would be stretching a point somewhat, but it is fair to say that it has been much less comprehensively wrecked by down-market tourism than many other locations in the Philippines.

There are certainly structures the town and the villages on the surrounding beaches would be better off without, but the sheer difficulty of getting there from Manila deters all but the most hardy of visitors.

Nevertheless, on the weekend of November 10th to 12th 2000, this unlikely spot is hosting a jazz festival featuring the cream of the players from the lively music scene of relatively nearby Hong Kong - and as it coincides with the beginning of the peak season for diving, the joint is expected to jump.

This will be a special weekend, but Puerto Galera is worth visiting at any time of year. Overland, which is the most practical way of making the journey, getting from Manila to Batangas Pier takes around 2 ½ hours and a further 2 to Puerto Galera by ferry or 1 ½ by motorised outrigger canoes called bancas. These are difficult to trans-ship to and from - and inclined to drench their passengers - but great fun and certainly the most effective way of navigating through the shallow waters with their beautiful but treacherous coral reefs.

Puerto Galera is blessed with some beautiful beaches - clearly enjoyed as much by the local population as by visitors. You could just lie on White Sand Beach or La Laguna Beach and soak up rays all day, but you would be mad if you did.

The harbour is widely acknowledged as one of the best diving areas in the Philippines, and although there are the usual cowboy operators around, there are also some highly professional outfits with PADI (Pacific Asia Diving Instructor) certificates.

For shopping undoubtedly the best place to be is El Galleon at Small Laguna Beach - an easy banca ride from Puerto Galera Harbour where boats can be hired from the wharf - which also happens to be the principle venue for the jazz festival.

El Galleon offers comfortable rooms with character, one of the better restaurants along the beach and one of the great bars of the world - The Point, which commands magnificent views across the bay, is cooled by the sea breezes and offers friendly service and drinks at the right temperature.

Immediately below it is the real heart of the operation, the Galleon Diving Centre, a well-equipped PADI operation run by Asia Divers who will arrange dives from bancas at a number of fascinating marine sites.

For the beginner however the waters in front of the Centre offer instant gratification to those who take the introductory PADI Discover Scuba Diving Course. After a short but thorough session of familiarisation with the gear, the instructor takes the aspirant divers from the end of the pier out into the bay, where some truly stunning corals can be seen, for a half-hour dive.

The waters are shallow, and something of the same experience can be had through snorkeling, but as an introduction to the world of diving this takes some beating.

Puerto Galera is a relaxed place and if land or above the water pursuits are your thing, somebody will probably be able to help you find a game of golf or an opportunity to go sailing. The port has both a yacht club and a golf club, which welcome visitors.

It has, as yet, no five star accommodation, but that is part of its charm. Most expenses are low, and the length of the journey justifies a protracted stay. Most visitors hate to leave, and almost all who have the opportunity come back.

In the past the main attraction has been the water. In future, if this year’s jazz festival is the success the organisers are hoping for, it may be for the music as well. Diving and accommodation come at a modest cost. The music will be free.