Delving into the Charms of Port Douglas by Fiona Harper
Featured Hotel in Port Douglas
Thala Beach Lodge
See all hotels in Port Douglas >
Sailing into Port Douglas after an extensive ocean passage that began in Darwin some 1600 nautical miles and three months prior, there was a palpable air of anticipation on board. As we approached civilisation the heady fragrance of frangipani and coconuts wafted above the palm fronds, delectably sweet in the tropical heat. Entering Dickson Inlet with its waterfront dining, my senses went into overdrive as intoxicating aromas of latte and spicy restaurants drifted downstream.
While hardly starving, our larder was severely depleted: the menu had recently been pared down to Spanish mackerel and frozen vegetables. Oh, and the last wine and beers had been harshly rationed, with just one thirst quenching drink allocated at the end of each days passage. As I said, we were hardly suffering. But there is something enticingly exotic about sailing into a new port, with perspective often overridden by an unerring need to sample every restaurant menu in town after months at sea.
Port Douglas (or just Port, as everyone seems to call it) was up to the challenge. Having shrugged off its ‘quaint fishing village’ label long ago, sophisticated restaurants, lounge bars and resorts have emerged beneath the coconut palms. It’s easy to be seduced by Port’s tropical charms, whether you arrive by land, air or sea. Graced with the natural beauty that comes from being sandwiched between twin World Heritage delights, the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef, Port has plenty of diversions of both the man-made and natural kind.
Dickson Inlet is a good place to start, with Marina Mirage Port Douglas the largest marina, positioned within a five-star waterfront village. The village itself appears to be caught in something of a time warp, though plans are afoot for major redevelopment of the entire waterfront. Naturally with such an ambitious project there are plenty of doubting Thomases who oppose development, so it may be some time before an upgrade begins. In the meantime, the marina is home to fine dining and exclusive shopping, concealed behind its 80s facade. It’s also the departure point for the large fleet of charter boats that take visitors out to the islands and reef, so there is plenty to see from your waterfront table.
A little downstream, and not far from The Tin Shed, a popular waterfront bar, is the preferred marina if vessel maintenance is required, the Island Point Slipway. Though I use the word marina rather loosely, Island Point Slipway operates a large slipway with wet berths for up to a dozen vessels appears somewhat ramshackle. This precinct also comes under the aforementioned waterfront upgrade proposal, and is seriously in need of a makeover, even though it functions adequately as a working marina and slipway.
Upstream is small, intimate Closehaven Marina, which is adjacent to the lively Port Douglas Yacht Club. The club has a busy sailing calendar, which visitors are welcome to join, while Spinnakers is the in house bistro. Find a table on the grass overlooking the inlet for good quality bistro meals amid a friendly yacht club atmosphere. It’s not flash, it’s hardly even funky, but it is shoes-optional good fun beneath the palms, in typical far north Queensland style. As dusk settles and the mangrove trees take on a honey hue, keep an eye out for a saltwater crocodile basking in the last rays of the sun.
While a crocodile salad (crocodile, avocado and ruby grapefruit just one delectable variation) is one delicious way to sample the local wildlife, something a little less tactile is to take a cruise on the paddle steamer Lady Douglas. I know, a paddle steamer sounds a little last century, but stay with me. Skipper John Edmondson, who is also a marine biologist, guarantees he will find me a crocodile during the 90-minute sunset cruise. He delivers right on cue, though disappointingly the croc is not basking on the bank where I can get a good look at it: I have to be content with seeing a rather prehistoric-looking head gliding menacingly past the hull. Meandering past exposed, gnarled mangrove tree roots that line the banks of the creeks, the cruise offers an intriguing peek into the little visited tidal wetlands.
Berthed at Marina Mirage, and at the other end of the charter boat scale is MY Galaxy I, a 26-metre elegant superyacht suitable for up to 12 discerning guests. Captain Nick Atkinson has been diving and exploring the Great Barrier Reef for years and treats his guests like treasured friends. Just ask him to take you to one of his favourite, secret locations on the reef, like deserted coral atolls or extraordinary coral gardens and he’ll oblige. For something a little special, though somewhat eerie if you’re accustomed to the constant intrusive, urbane sounds of the city, charter Galaxy for an extended cruise to experience the absolute silence and tranquillity of an overnight anchorage on the Great Barrier Reef.
Leaving Marina Mirage, I’ve struck gold, as the Port Douglas Sunday Markets are in full swing. Designated a cotters market (meaning that goods should have been made or produced by stall holders or their immediate family), it’s a creative melting pot of art, craft and clothing as well as some delicious tropical fruits and vegetables. Operating waterside at Market Park for almost 20 years, the market is on every Sunday morning.
Laden with trinkets, I leave Dickson Inlet behind and walk east up Macrossan Street towards Five Mile Beach. Virtually at a standstill during the wet season (when it’s not unusual for 2m of rain to fall in one month), each dry season sees new dining spots opening up amid trusted, worthy favourites. The best ones, such as Salsa Bar and Grill, follow the successful fusion of undercover alfresco dining, cocktails mixed with plenty of tropical fruits, along with tempting menus that feature abundant local seafood. I adopt Watergate as my own living room with its welcoming comfy couches and a lounge style menu to accompany thirst-quenching specialties such as the mint mojito with plenty of fresh lime and crushed mint.
Flames of the Forest allows dinner guests to experience genuine north Queensland rainforest in an elegant setting. Beautifully lit with hundreds of candles, flaming torches and a handful of chandeliers, three nights a week diners are treated to a three-course dinner beneath the forest canopy, accompanied by Aboriginal storytelling and songs.
Venturing a little further out of town, Thala Beach Lodge, a five-star eco lodge overlooking the Coral Sea ten minutes south of Port, is worth a stop if for no other reason than to order the exquisite lobster bisque laced with brandy and served with bug tails at in-house Osprey Restaurant. It’s hard to drag myself away from this fine dining restaurant concealed in the forest canopy, but further watery escapades beckon.
Port is blessed with some exceptional accommodation, with luxury homes and apartments such as swanky Coconut Grove in the heart of Macrossan Street boasting a Coral Sea view penthouse. Five star resorts like Sea Temple, with its enormous lagoon pool, or the exquisite sanctuary pavilions at Peppers Bale satisfy the need for refined tropical indulgence.
There is a curious charm to Port Douglas, rare in north Queensland which is not known for its elegance. On the one hand it oozes glamour from its very stylish pores with fine dining and significant art galleries. At the other end of the scale, cool, funky bars attract the young international set, with the occasional cane toad race thrown in for local flavour. Port is a fusion of tropical style and culture that is particularly appealing.
We leave town on the early morning high tide, fully sated. And with the galley stores deliciously replenished.