Delphi by Byron Browne

Delphi, Greece, once a drowsy hamlet of approximately 3500, frequented mainly by the adventurous or students of the Classics, has seen its own popularity soar as an educated public more frequently comes to pay homage to the, “Vatican of the ancient Mediterranean world.” Coupled with that interest was the fervor of the Greek government to update the largely rural and underdeveloped area for the summer 2004 Olympics. The result is that Delphi has been transformed into a teeming tourist center which even Apollo might have difficult recognizing.

If traveling to Delphi for the first time, be forewarned; the Greek train system does not connect here. Nor does the train roll into the Corinthian coastal town of Itea, situated just below, and visible from Delphi. Nearly everyone arrives by car or tour bus, the latter being no small wonder given the narrowness of the roads through the Parnassus mountain range. Highway 65 from Patra (the port city where many tours enter the country) is a slim, serpentine, two-lane blacktop through the mountains.

Renting a car is the best idea as the countryside around Greece transforms dramatically after leaving Athens. Athens is a major European capital where 4.5 million of the country’s 11 million congregate. While it is a wonder to experience, it is also wondrous to witness the rest of the country.

Frequently, the Greece that you have imagined will be found outside of Athens. In this way you will also find the numerous maroon and yellow archaeological signs that pepper the country. While not always open (the one person with the key to the site’s gate is many times, out in the fields tending their goats) there are many archaeological sites that ordinary tourists will never even know about. The ancient world co-exists with the modern in Greece and, indeed, is a great component of the national consciousness.

Greece is one of the two countries in the EU (Portugal being the other) that is frequently described in guidebooks and journals as “inexpensive” by European standards. With the exception of Athens, this holds true for the majority of the country. However, just as Pisa, Italy, is infamous as a tourist stronghold, Delphi is a compact citadel of tourism for the Phocis area. As the country’s second most visited tourist destination, the town’s population of roughly 3500, swells by hundreds each day of the peak season, which runs from April to October. Traveling during the late winter or early spring can be more enjoyable as the crowds have yet to arrive. Early March is also the season that the Parnassus area’s flowers begin to bloom and the Apollonian and Athenian sanctuaries are beyond description at that time of year.

Staying in Delphi is an adventure primarily due to the numbers of tourists from around the world. From the balconies, you can witness the German, Japanese, British, American and Italian students flocking to the local disco as well as their chaperones, who invariably stalk the local shops in search of some indigenous artifact. The area’s hotels are not cheap but, if you can secure a room with a view of the Corinthian bay, you may not want to leave. The views, of the Parnassus mountain range and the sea, are fascinating.

For the more adventurous, there are several campsites around Delphi. These are located along the highway from Itea. The Apollon and Chrissa grounds are particularly clean and available. The former is two kilometers from Delphi and the latter, eight. Both advertise year round camping with signs that read 1/1-31/12; a little confusing (Just as signs in the States sometimes read, “Open from Monday through Sunday”) but the point is made. In all, I counted five such campsites between Patra and Delphi on highway 65.

If relocating to Delphi is a plan, I spoke with Constantinos Segounis, the owner of a souvenir shop, named, oddly enough, Souvenir Shop, who had recently built a new home. Constantinos stated that he had his home built on the northern slope of the town (this is where the majority of residents of Delphi live, safely removed from the din of the tourists) and that for a house with, “cement construction, 2 baths with tile and 100 square meters” he paid €135,000. Considering what that would be in US dollars was a little staggering however, Constantinos seemed expert at acquiring the funds to pay for his new home.

While we browsed his shop, we found a terra cotta Cretan snake goddess figurine that had a price of €90. Constantinos leaned in to whisper, “ 90 euros? Is mistake. You can have for twenty bucks” [sic]. I felt entitled until I witnessed Constantinos perform exactly the same maneuver with a couple of other groups of shoppers. In any case, I bought the figurine.

With all things considered, I supposed that Mr. Segounis was doing well, financially speaking. His store was busy, even for nine o’clock in the evening. However, when asked about business he replied, with the standard Grecian shrug, that “things are ok”. He added though, that for the past two to three years, “business not so good, “ due to, “war in world” [sic].

Traveling east towards Arahova are the archaeological sites of Apollo and Athena. The sanctuary of Apollo is fascinating if one considers the major historical role this site played in antiquity. A little further on and often overlooked but, frequently photographed is the sanctuary of Athena. The round foundation of the Tholos is extraordinary, with only the Philippeion at Olympia and the temple of the Vestals at Rome similar in construction.

In fact, the bath complex at the Athena sanctuary is where the athletes would cleanse themselves (Delphi was one of the four cities where the “Olympics” were held. The other three cities being, Nemea, Isthmia and, of course, Olympia) and practice before competing at the track on top of the Apollonian site. While the cost for the Apollo sanctuary and accompanying museum is € 9 (free during the off season) the Athenian sanctuary is open daily for no cost and the crowds, inexplicably, ignore it.

Visiting Delphi is well worth the trip. No matter the cost or inconvenience, the town and archaeological site are unique and not a little ethereal. Driving the course, either from Patra in the east or from Athens in the west on highway E962 is almost as enjoyable as the arrival. Driving, of course, offers its own perils. The roads are narrow, winding and should be taken with caution. Gas stations are easy to find however, many do not take credit cards and gas is now more costly than ceramic icons. In addition, because of their diminished width, traffic jams are frequent. We encountered a 45-minute delay in Arahova due to one semi trailer and two tour buses competing for the same section of road.

Nevertheless, the stay did enable me to notice that the town had five tabernas, two pensions and three hotels within a couple of small blocks of each other. Not a bad place to get hung up.