Dar El Ghalia by Fiona Dunlop

Arriving in Fez late at night to check in at Dar El GHalia means being met at a nearby square by a pixie-like porter who guides you silently and speedily uphill through the maze. Entering the silent, palatial riad is like a journey through time into the home of one of the city’s grand families. As it dates from the 18th century, much is authentically weathered. Gigantic proportions, arches, a trickling fountain, low brass tables, zelige mosaic and sculpted plaster details contrast idiosyncratically with a baby grand piano, a 1920s record-player, a chaise longue and upholstered European-style furniture. High above is a sliding roof - useful for the Fez’ climatic extremes but reducing natural ventilation.

By breakfast-time impressions have changed, as by then a lift lined with aromatic cedarwood has whizzed you to the top-floor roof terrace. Sweeping views encompass a jumble of minarets, rooftop satellite dishes and distant hills as you tuck into an excellent and copious spread.

The rooms
Every one of the 13 rooms and suites is different and each one is named after a woman connected with the Lebbar family, from concubine to grandmother. Furnishings are ultra traditional and heavy, in keeping with the superb carved wood ceilings, zelige walls and some beautiful antique furniture. As a result some suites can be rather gloomy, cluttered and airless - there are few outside windows although all rooms are air-conditioned and have plenty of artificial light. Most have TV and hi-fi, some have fireplaces. Bathrooms and shower-rooms, too, vary considerably and, although well-appointed with bathrobes and toiletries, can be annoyingly small. The nicest suite is the spacious, reasonably light Guamra (meaning ‘moon’) on the first-floor which opens onto a gallery sit-out area offering a bird’s eye view of the patio below. Laaziza boasts an imposing four-poster bed while the daddy of them all, Laal Rkiya, is a 3-bedroom duplex apartment.

Dar El-Ghalia is located on the less touristy but equally fascinating east side of the medina (the main tourist area is to the west and north) and offers a glimpse of an authentic quarter with bountiful food market. Staff are a delight: very friendly yet not intrusive. Internet, CD and guide-books are available in the hotel office. Children can be catered for in the larger suites and a hammam with massage treatment is available.