Dar Daif by Joanna Monkhouse

Next to a ruined kasbah whose only current residents are the storks nesting on the roof, Dar Daif is a mere 15 minutes by car from the centre of Ouarzazate in a village of mud houses, but its atmosphere couldn’t be more different from the town. Ouarzazate itself is not a particularly inspiring place to stay in – a modern town constructed by the French, it lacks the medina of the Imperial cities and the charm of villages – although it does have a couple of kasbahs and film studios to visit. Staying in the area is a good base for exploring Southern Morocco, or a convenient overnight stop on the way to the desert either at Tinfou or Merzouga.

Dar Daif is a reconstructed and extended kasbah which now houses 12 rooms, a restaurant serving simple Moroccan food and a swimming pool. You are invited to leave your shoes and don a pair of well-used Moroccan slippers at the entrance of the warren-like structure, where carpet covered floors and stairways lead off in different directions. The rooms are centred around the internal fountain and most can accommodate 2-3 people (some up to 5). The décor is simple, dark green tiles cover the lower half of the walls, blue bedspreads covering the beds (mattresses on concrete bases), dim lighting and pictures of the traditional dress in various parts of the country. In those rooms with a/c, it can just about cope with summer heat, if you lie still. Windows are small to keep out the heat so the rooms can be quite dark but some have balconies with striking views across the desert and palm trees to the Atlas Mountains. The small bathrooms have western plumbing but the water pressure is low and the showers trickle. Dar Daif also has a hammam, and the pool is a welcome addition, especially for children.

Dar Daif is run by a Jean-Pierre, a friendly Frenchman (resident in Morocco for more than 25 years) and his charming Moroccan wife Zineb. They will happily dispense extensive advice and hand drawn maps of the area, and also specialise in arranging excursions to Zagora, Dades, the desert or to meet local Berber women. Their local expertise is invaluable and makes Dar Daif a commendable choice.