Czech out Prague by Daphne Beames
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A necklace of sparkling gems is best seen from afar and so, too, the first glimpse of this dazzling, unique skyline should be from a distance. An endless array of golden roofs; turquoise Baroque domes; shining, black Gothic towers and sparkling spires is strung out above the banks of the River Vltava in a rich, architectural display.
Why visit Prague? Apart from its well-documented attractions, the city is mysterious and compelling. From its earliest beginnings, a cruel history has lain beneath a veneer of beauty. In more modern times Communist gloom blanketed the city for over forty years, creating a forbidden cultural treasure - all the more to be savoured today.
It is an interesting experience to drive over the Czech border from Furst im Wald in Bavaria and into the Bohemian countryside. It is like stepping into a time machine and going backwards! (German car hire companies do not allow their Mercs, Audi’s and BMW’s to be driven over the border and warn of a maze of one-way streets and spot fines.)
Prague, like Rome, is built on seven hills and, if you approach from the south, as we did, the river running through it curves gently to the north-east, neatly creating an east west divide. To the west, and atop the highest hill, towering over the city and overlooking the castle, are the ornate, black, twin towers of the Gothic 14th-century Cathedral of St. Vitus. One enters through two courtyards embellished with large statues, always black, and, apart from the immense height of the edifice above, what strikes one most is the vast number of sightseers constantly streaming in through the gates.
This area is Hradcany, seat of an ancient town of the same name and home to the royal palace (now the presidential offices); the Basilica of St. George and other grandiose palaces built around a huge cobbled square, the Hradcanské Namesti. This picture book setting is surrounded by the figs and cedars of the royal gardens and has served as the backdrop for major Hollywood movies, among them, Amadeus. To add to the glamour, the palace guards, in their quaint powder blue uniforms, change every hour, in a toy soldier ceremony.
I had always been a little intimidated by the strange Czech names which the cognoscenti drop so glibly, and so it was with real pleasure that I learnt to decipher some of them. Below Hradcany (the Castle Complex) is the Mala Strana. This simply means ‘Lesser Quarter’. As royalty occupied the hilltop, the aristocracy had to settle for the lower slopes. Today you will find the area still strewn with Baroque palaces but now also sporting trendy, new restaurants.
Not for nothing is Prague omitted from gastronomic tomes. After an indifferent lunch - we were offered the typical national dish of roast pork, sauerkraut and dumplings (veprové se zelim) accompanied by the ubiquitous Pilsner beer - we headed east and crossed the river by the Cechuv Bridge.
We were now in a district called Josefov. This area is rich in history and, was the site of a 14th-century Jewish ghetto. It is named after the Emperor, Joseph ll, who issued an order of toleration towards the Jews. The tall buildings on either side of the narrow streets seemed almost to meet overhead as we walked to the old Jewish Town Hall. This picturesque Rococo building, in cream and blue, boasts an ornate Hebrew clock. The golden hands turn anti-clockwise around the raised Hebrew numerals on the clockface. Just opposite is the old Jewish cemetery. Owing to lack of space, twelve ancient layers of graves have been placed one on top of the other beneath the now toppled, mouldering headstones.
The beckoning charms of Staromestské Namesti (the very name sounds like a Swarovski jewel) pulled us southwards. We walked past the Rott House with its exquisite, decorative murals and cartoons, and along quaint streets fronted by specialist shops (one the violin shop), until the breathtaking Old Town Square opened up before us. We were again conscious of the large numbers of people gazing in fascination at the beautiful buildings. Timeless and serene in the afternoon sunlight, it was difficult to imagine a day in 1968 when the Russian tanks rolled in during the dramatic Prague Spring.
Centre stage, the pink and black walls of the solid Old Town Hall command immediate attention. Adorning its south wall is the very famous Orloj or Astronomical Clock designed by Master Hanus. The huge, golden dials tell not only the time; but also the position of the planets, the equinoxes and the phases of the moon. As each hour strikes, the square fills to capacity. Increased crowds flock to watch the chiming display as two small doors open to reveal scenes of revolving figures.
The canvas is rich indeed but two buildings are especially captivating. Rising to the east of the square are the commanding, black spires of the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn. Perhaps this haunting, Bohemian façade most epitomises Prague? It is strange, medieval and Gothic. And then, in the north-west corner, stands the elegant Baroque church of St Nicholas. It is white; has superb proportions and is capped by delicate, fluted, green spires.
There was still much to see and souvenirs to be selected. We needed a place to sit and the seats in one of the up-market viewing restaurants in the square looked inviting. This was a mistake as each cup of cappuccino cost 120 Koruna, which translates at about 5.50 Euros or R50! Although the Czech Republic is now part of the European Union, the Czechs are still fiercely possessive of their currency. We bought Prague specialities: Bohemian crystal; glassware; handcrafted, wooden toys and antique prints. Our ‘postcards from Prague’ were, however, destined never to be sent as, although most shops will accept Euros, the card and stamp vendors insisted on local currency.
We briefly visited the New Town or Nové Mesto and the famous Wenceslas Square, which is really a wide, modern boulevard of no particular charm, although the major events of the Velvet Revolution of 1989 took place here.
A piece of historic trivia: while good old King Wenceslas was whooping it up in Prague, his sister, Anne, was queening it in England as the consort of Richard II.
It was time to retrace our steps across the river and, of course, we had saved the best for the last. The famous stone arches of the Charles Bridge or Karluv Most date from 1357 when Charles IV laid the foundation stone. The three Bridge Towers are distinctive. Guarding the eastern bank is a tall, solid-stone Gothic tower while, on the Mala Strana side, a similar, black structure is joined to the smaller Judith tower.
The bridge is low, wide and so jam-packed with pedestrians that to cross it is almost a ‘Mission Impossible’. (The Tom Cruise movie of the same name was made here.) Throughout the year, it is home to a constant throng of tourists and a colourful medley of musicians, artists and street vendors.
Although we had been warned to guard our valuables from gangs working the bridge, we saw no sign of would-be criminals and simply delighted in the atmosphere, the vibe and the view. An ancient trade route; ravaged by floods and advancing armies; decorated with Romanesque statues and attracting the masses – the bridge epitomises the very soul of Prague; and what stories these stones could tell!
To end our tour we stepped off the bridge and on to the Kampa Island stairway. Here picturesque dwellings with pastel façades, superior restaurants and souvenir shops vie with each other to attract passing custom, while the riverside gardens and parks host displays of giant photographs and exciting exhibitions of modern art.
All those people (and Tom) just cannot be wrong, so add Prague to your Czech-list of must-see sights!