Cours Julien by Stephen Emms

Life here is lived outside: sit at a table under the shade of the pine trees as the sunlight’s dappled rays hit huge fountain in the square. The city’s youth mingle with local families and tourists out on most days. On various days of the week, there is a flower market, organic food and a book market.

See

You’re in the artiest district in the city so why not dive straight into the fringe at Chocolat Theatre (59, Cours Julien). If avant-garde entertainment is a bit too much, head instead for Espace Julien (39 Cours Julien), a long-standing venue which hosts world music, jazz, hip hop and electro, whilst small bands and DJs play at Café Julien. For a taste of the Maghreb try Le Son D’Orient (7, Place Paul Cézanne), a North African haunt whose low tables, and banquettes bear witness to weekly jamming sessions.

Shop

Cours Ju, as it’s known, is a haven of boutiques and second hand and antique shops. Take your pick, but don’t miss Madame Zaza de Marseille (74 Cours Julien) for ‘alternative’ fashion and costume jewellery, La Librairie (51 Cours Julien) for the best used books. At the end of the Cours and Rue des Trois Mages for stalls selling the cheapest CDs, books and magazines.

Eat and Drink

The Cours is one of the best places in the world for people-watching, with its cosmopolitan mix. For morning coffee or a fresh juice head to O’ Cours Jus (67, Cours Julien). For lunch try Le Jardin a Cote (65, Cours Julien), which boasts an open kitchen and large outdoor terrace, although the service can be slow. The daily Mediterranean specials are always good value, and the local wine more-ish.

For something more romantic, book an evening table at Le Clou (24 Cours Julien), situated at the quieter end of the Ju. Sit in its shady garden terrace and choose from its Alsatian menu.