Those who are aware of such things, know that Krakow is the new Florence; it’s got all the ancient beauty, without the maddening tourist hordes. And the 29-room Hotel Copernicus (yes, the eminent philosopher was a guest here) is where the cognoscenti are bedding down. Astonishing 14th and 15th Century details have been kept intact--medieval portals, wooden ceilings, ancient wall inscriptions--but the interior has been given a stylish update. A glass-enclosed courtyard contains a piano bar as well as a library, and a sauna is located in the historic cellars. It’s a bit like living in a world heritage site for a couple of days--but elegantly so.