City of East-West Fusions by Hal Peat
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What to Do
Explore the East-West fusion: walking the distinct communities that comprise the City by the Bay’s long-time connection to the Pacific Rim, on the one hand, and its past history of 19th-century grandeur on the other, will provide you wiith an overview of San Francisco’s still unique cultural synergy. For a close-up encounter with the city’s Asian aspect take a tour of one or more of the several thriving communities: Chinatown, for instance, is about eight blocks long and compact enough to get around largely on foot. This is the place to shop or browse the local galleries for anything from jewelry, sculpture, ceramics, carved ivory and jade items, paintings or furniture from China - but take time to visit points of local interest like the Chinese Culture Center which hosts exhibits, performances and - if you like - a guided tour through the neighborhood. For a look at the ingredients of Chinese cuisine, head to Stockton St. and visit the scores of shops bedecked with the full array of staples from fowl to fruit. For a more formal view of the Asian heritage, stop by the Asian Art Museum at its new home in the Civic Center. With a permanent collection of more than 13,000 objects spanning 6,000 years and representing cultures throughout Asia, this is the largest museum of its kind in the U.S.
Rediscover the renovated Union Square: if you haven’t visited the city in a few years, you will be dazzled by the new look and additions to landmark Union Square, which re-opened in July 2002 after an 18-month, $25 million redesign. Sporting new granite plazas, a terraced stage on Post Street, light sculptures designed by artist R.M. Fischer, a new café and four grand entrance corner plazas bordered by the park’s signature palms, the remodeled square pays tribute to the Square’s distinctive history and brings to life the theme, “All the Square’s a Stage.”
Get in touch with San Francisco’s Gilded Age history: head for Nob Hill, bordered by Pacific Avenue, Bush, Larkin and Stockton Streets, which to this day remains one of San Franscisco’s smartest (and highest) neighborhoods with breathtaking views in all directions. This district is also still home to many of the grandest hotels, including the Mark Hopkins, the Fairmont, the Stanford Court and the Huntington Hotel & Spa. Tea at an establishment like the Mark Hopkins - or a nightcap if you’re visiting late in the day - gives you a true first-hand taste of an earlier lifestyle and era that made this the most glittering city in the West. And if you’re tired of driving hills, this is definitely the time to do the cable car (which runs all the way up from Market Street).
Another option for exploring this neighborhood is to take advantage of the expertise of local guide outfit Hobnob Tours, which takes small groups on two hour walking tours and fills you in on the colorful histories of the Silver Kings and Railroad Barons who built the Victorian mansions hereabouts. They’ll highlight the contributions of eminent architects Willis Polk and Julia Morgan in the creation of Nob Hill’s mansions and historic buildings, and you can also include Chinatown on their itineraries.
Chinese Culture Center: 750 Kearny St., (415) 986-1822
Asian Art Museum: (415) 379-8800; www.asianart.org
Hobnob Tours: (650) 851-1123; www.hobnobtours.com
Where to Dine
Chaya Brasserie: A culinary convergence of Japanese and French dining aesthetics makes Chaya Brasserie another perfect theme note of San Francisco’s creative harmonizing of East and West cultures. After opening in early February, 2000 in the Embarcadero district, Chaya has since become a favorite of both native and visiting discerning restaurant goers. Executive Chef Shigefumi Tachibe, who pioneered Franco-Japanese cooking at La Petit Chaya in Los Angeles in the 1980's, is at the helm of the kitchen and sushi bar. In San Francisco, Tachibe offers some of his signature dishes and new dishes inspired by and taking advantage of the Bay Area's fine local ingredients.
Salmon Tartare Potato Blinis; Dungeness Crab Spring Roll with Crab Tartare; and Seaweed Salad with Ginger Soy vinaigrette are among the appetizers, while entrees include Blue Nose Sea Bass stuffed with Langoustine, Uni and Spinach, with Morel Sauce and Haricot Vert Salad; Sliced Roasted Venison with Black Peppercorn Sauce and Purple Potato puree; and Roasted Rack of Lamb with Vegetable Pot-au-Feu and Black Olive Tapenade.
Chaya is located in two buildings that have been joined, yet offer different moods. The south dining room incorporates the main entrance and is a large, convivial space with booths, tables, parquet floors, rust-colored upholstery and a sweeping twenty-one foot zinc bar. The viewable kitchen anchors the back of this room. The north dining room is backed by the sushi bar that gives way to an elegant, intimate space with carpeted floor, lacquered panel walls, a restful palette and views of the bay. The 170 seat restaurant with the magnificent views of the San Francisco Bay and its Bridge offers all the innovative cuisine, international design, original art work and panache that define all three Chayas.
132 The Embarcadero: (415) 777-8688, www.thechaya.com