Casas Karen by Angela Moore

Casas Karen is on a scrubby patch of land in scrubby little Canos de la Meca, a tiny town that straggles along the beach to cliffs on one side and the Trafalgar lighthouse on the other (the battle of Trafalgar was fought in the waters off this headland.) On first view it might seem that this is a town that only a kitesurfer could love; only slowly does its beaten, isolated Atlantic charm become apparent.

Casas Karen is the perfect establishment for this town – two traditional white stone houses, two traditional straw-and-bamboo chozas, five minutes back from the beach under a hill forested by the curious umbrella pines. This is an extremely simple place, which seldom offers more than the basics. The hotel is run on semi-sustainable and organic lines, so waste is composted and water is drawn from the well and re-used where possible. Ecologically sound washing liquid is provided, but you’ll need to bring your own eco-friendly shampoo and so forth. You’ll also have to deal with your own garbage, taking it into the disposal bins in the town.

There is a happy, hippy element to the place; one of the staff lives on site in an old blue school bus with his rollicking pack of dogs. Karen herself is a free-spirited, traveller sort of person, who is interested in alternative modes of living. She has just bought the land next door and is planning the complex’s first communal area – this will be the perfect place to come for a yoga retreat or a weekend of meditation.

The rooms
The Choza Grande is the best option for accommodation at Casas Karen. It is a traditional Andalucian thatched house, built from straw and bamboo, similar to an African hut. Knowledge of this traditional building method is slowly dying out in Andalucia.

The Choza sits on its own piece of land, and feels very private. Inside, it’s much larger than you first think. The floor is gravel-covered and laid with bright, patterned rugs. The walls are lined with shuttered windows to let in the light and the cooling breeze that plays constantly here. The Choza is perfectly constructed to keep warm in winter and cool in summer; I can also testify that it holds up well to autumn rainstorms!

There’s a seating area and a little dining area downstairs; the bed is on a wooden sleeping platform that you reach by ladder. The kitchen has a gas cooker and a fridge; it’s well enough stocked that you could cook every meal here. The large bathroom is similar to a wet room, with bath and shower and a rather unfortunate tendency to smell like drains! It’s all rather charmingly furnished with odd bits and bobs.

There’s a hammock provided for lazing – though the wind can be persistent enough to drive you indoors. There’s also a barbeque provided for outdoor cooking. The Choza is unique by day but really comes into its own by night, when the wind dies and you can sit outside and watch the stars and listen for owls, while the beam from the lighthouse sweeps over the hill like a great white bird.

The Choza Grande and Casas Karen are certainly not for everyone. Do not expect luxury; sometimes, staying here can feel like quite hard work. However, you are guaranteed space, and quiet, and a unique time in a unique place.