Beyond the Rose-Coloured City: A Trip to Jordan by Kayt Sukel
We clamber across the rocks to the foot of the waterfalls, looking for an appropriate spot to lower ourselves into the pools underneath. The Evason Ma’in Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa, at a balmy 38C, are where King Herod (of beheading-John-the-Baptist-and-dancing-Salome fame) once soaked his weary bones. After all, beheading Christian prophets tends to be quite exhausting work – who couldn’t use a spa day after something like that?
Mud Bath
Before I manage to dip a single toe in, an attendant from the Ma’in Hot Springs beckons, pointing to an earthen jar a few steps away. “Madame, please, the mud is here” she says. For the full benefit of these springs, guests – from notorious Saudi princes to pilgrims with no claim to any royal status – unabashedly smear the rich, dark mud on every bit of exposed skin before soaking underneath the falls.
Who am I to refuse? And as I start to paint my arms with the mud, noting its consistency is not unlike my son’s favorite finger-paint’s, my companion looks around at the surrounding landscape of waterfalls and sand-colored canyons with amazement. “I had no idea that this place even existed. You’ve been to Jordan before. Did you know this was here?” she said.
Though I wish I could say differently, until recently, I had had no idea either. Like many, my first journey to Jordan revolved around the ancient Nabataean city of Petra. It is the stuff of legends, inspiring picture postcards and Indiana Jones (and now Transformers) films.
Top of the World
My son and I spent several days wandering the large archeological park and loved every moment of it. We scaled the heights of en-Nejr on donkey back to explore the famed Monastery and take a glimpse of ‘the top of the world.’ We scampered up the ancient steps of the Brown University temple and delighted in the detail of the ruins. And we sat down with more than a few Bedouins along the way and allowed ourselves to be embraced by sugary tea, warm hospitality and dreams of a nomadic lifestyle.
In meeting other travellers, hailing from spots scattered all across this great, grand globe, we learned more about the other Jordan – the vast, beautiful and diverse country you will find outside Petra’s rose-coloured walls. Haggling for chunky silver jewellery in Amman’s souk; watching reenactments of chariot races in the old Roman stronghold of Jerash; floating despite yourself in the salty Dead Sea; diving wrecks on the floor of Aqaba’s Red Sea; camping under the stars in Lawrence of Arabia’s home turf, the Wadi Rum – all this and more is there for the experiencing.
Each traveller’s story seemed better than the last, filled with experiences of incomparable hospitality, scenic natural wonder and a heck of a lot of fun. These tales immediately made me realise I had much to learn about the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan – all of it. Especially when many of my educators reluctantly admitted they didn’t know about these other wonders either. Not until they took that first journey to Petra, anyway.
Top of the World
For my second trip to Jordan, I wanted to do, see and taste it all – or, at least, as much of it as I could in a ten day period (Alas, I now believe, even with months at your disposal, you still would not be able to see it all. Jordan, despite its size, has an overabundance of amazing sites and experiences). But given my time constraints, I allowed myself to be thoroughly pampered by the rustic elegance and tranquility of Evason Ma’in’s state-of-the-art spa, staying in the waterfall pools until my fingers went pruney. I camped out in the Wadi Rum, dancing and singing the night away under a canopy of bright, twinkling stars. I found myself astonished by the Feynan Eco Lodge’s commitment to conservation and nature as I ate delicious local foods and hiked old river beds in the Dana Biosphere Reserve. And my adventures at the Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea had me mudding up once again (this time, the consistency was a tad grittier) before attempting to do a floating kick line with girlfriends on the giant salt lake’s surface.
I’ll admit I returned to Petra too – and was still thoroughly inspired by its magic. There’s a reason why it remains such a draw for even the most jaded traveler. But this time, I was satisfied with only a single day of exploring. And much of that time I spent meeting other voyagers, taking a few moments to share stories. I learned about a few new places, noting them for my next trip to Jordan. And, more importantly, I did a little educating of my own, telling newcomers about all the incredible places they might find if they only stepped out of Petra. It seemed to be my turn, after all.
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