Best Towns in Malaga Province: A Guide to Andalucia by Fiona Dunlop
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Central Andalucía has it all, from a sweep of high density resorts bordering the Mediterranean to cosseting towns of the wild interior like Ronda or Antequera. In summer, glitzy Marbella is the long-standing hotspot for anyone with sailing, golfing or gourmet credentials but out of season, as the mood and climate shift into slower gear, is when to head for the blissfully low key hinterland.
Real Spirit of Andalucía
Here, far from the coast, undulating sierra dotted with whitewashed villages or striped with olive-groves alternates with raw granite mountains. This is where the real spirit of Andalucía lies. Nor can you ignore the cultural pull of the Costa del Sol’s capital, Malaga, with its fine gastronomy and tapas as well as the sharply designed Museo Picasso. In the end, it’s a pretty hard call to decide which option is more Spanish.
Ronda, one of Andalucía’s most spectacular and photographed sights, lies due north of Estepona up an agonisingly twisting road. Here the region’s greatest cliff-hanger straddles a dramatic slash of the 100m-deep Tajo Gorge, then unfolds into an evocative Renaissance world of cobbled streets, secret plazas and colonnaded mansions.
There are plenty of hangovers from the long Moorish rule, from beautifully crafted Mudejar patios to the Baños Arabes (Arab baths) down the hill, but perhaps the most striking structure is the Plaza de Toros, or bullring, dating back to 1785. With the bull-fighting season over, next best is a glimpse of the museum inside the ring where beaded toreador jackets dazzle beside photos and other memorabilia, including homage to Ronda’s greatest son, the bullfighter Pedro Romero, and of course that larger-than-life aficionado, Orson Welles.
Classic Whitewashed Villages
With time on your hands, it is worth heading west into the rugged Sierra de Ubrique. An area of classic pueblos blancos (whitewashed villages), this is where goats and shepherds lead their flocks over rocky hillsides and bells toll from ever ubiquitous village churches. Life slows to a crawl, and you may find it tough to even find a bar, so grab the opportunity to join local old men on benches lapping up the sunshine and views.
One small town that will not disappoint is Grazalema – the hikers’ crossroads at the base of the granite-capped Mount Simancón, where the main square of wall to wall bars and restaurants makes a welcome change.
Back in towards Malaga, another authentic town is Antequera which is said to have more churches per capita than any other town in Spain, as well as a generous dose of noble mansions. History runs exceptionally deep here, as three dolmens on the edge of town are thought to go back 4500 years.
Only half an hour’s drive north of Malaga by highway, Antequera nestles in the lee of yet another memorable sierra, El Torcal. Here, high above the coast, you can clamber through a fairytale landscape of massive eroded boulders, each more sculptural than the next, like remnants of some ancient god’s wrath – or maybe it was Henry Moore. Well-marked trails make it the perfect destination for walking off that tapas and fino overkill.
Lively Port Town
Malaga itself is a lively port town with a marked hedonistic streak helped by beaches backed by seafood restaurants, lush semi-tropical gardens and a pedestrianised old town packed with gastronomic distractions. This is where Pablo Picasso spent his childhood and his family home, on the rather dilapidated Plaza de la Merced, is open to the public. Although, for a real art interest, nothing beats the Museo Picasso, housed in a stunningly converted Renaissance mansion a few minutes’ walk away. The collection, much of which was lent by his descendants, is outstanding, as is the sleek modern extension by the American architect, Richard Gluckmann.
In the surrounding web of narrow streets, dozens of little tapas bars and tiny shops lead the way to the Cathedral and to the wide, marble-paved Calle Larios, the commercial hub of town. Some shops are looking a little tired or closed but, once paseo kicks in in the early evening, Malaga’s irrepressible Mediterranean atmosphere returns.
History buffs should return east of the old centre to see the Roman theatre then climb steeply uphill to the restored Moorish Alcazaba (a fortified palace). The forbidding structure houses an archaeological museum which, together with its Mudejar architectural features, paints a rich picture of the cities past glories.
Higher up the ridge, and accessed from behind the hill, looms the 14th-century castle of Gibralfaro. Here you can walk around the magnificent old ramparts and gardens and see sweeping views of the town, backed by a straggle of matchboxes along the coast, rolling hills and of course the glittering Med. Then, whether the Costa sun is shining or sinking, settle down for a drink or meal at the terrace of the venerable parador. There is arguably no better place to savour the full offering of this region.
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