Berlin Like a Local by Francisca Kellett
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Visit the Reichstag: Today’s seat of the German parliament perfectly sums up Berlin’s weird mix of classical and modern. Originally built in 1884, Sir Norman Foster was hauled in after reunification for a redesign, and the result is an airy glass dome poking bravely out of the historic bulk of the building. Inside, a spiral walkway snakes to the top of the dome, from where you have panoramic views over the city. Arrive early, as queues are long.
Wander through Postdamer Platz: Berlin’s most obvious symbol of its reinvention is this vast urban space, less of a square and more of a city-within-a-city. What was once a strip of heavily patrolled no-man’s land split by the Berlin Wall is today a startling sprawl of glass-and-steel palaces. Wander through the landscaped streets and gawp at the soaring tent-roofed courtyard of the Sony Centre, or head for the shops around DaimlerCity.
Do brunch: Don’t miss out on a long and leisurely brunch, a weekend institution in Berlin. Most of the city’s restaurants and cafés offer huge buffets of cold meats and cheeses, fresh fruit, eggs and smoked salmon. Locals tend to meet at around 11 and linger over their cappuccinos for several hours.
Culture
Jewish Museum: Daniel Liebeskind has made his mark on the city with this gleaming, jagged creation. The polished metal exterior follows a zig-zag ground plan representing a torn-apart Star of David. The exhibition itself is the largest of its kind in Europe, focusing on Jewish history from the Middle Ages. It is the remarkable building, though – and the uneasy history which it represents – which is the real draw.
Eastside Gallery: Visitors are often surprised at how little evidence remains of the Berlin Wall, but one stretch, along Mühlenstrasse in Friedrichshain, can still be visited. Although many of the famous images painted on the wall – such as that of Hönecker and Brezhnev kissing – have faded with time or been obscured by graffiti, this open-air museum is a poignant marker of the city’s past.
Pergamon Museum: The Pergamon houses a vast collection of antiquities, highlight of which is the vast marble Pergamon Altar dating from 164 BC. Elsewhere there are impressive collections of classical Roman, Greek and Middle Eastern art and architecture. It’s a cavernous place, so pace yourself.
The Locals
Berliners are known throughout Germany for their sharp wit and acid tongues – known as “Berliner Schnauze” (Berliner Mouth). They’re a gregarious bunch, with a dry sense of humour and a reputation for quick-fired repartee. Visitors will find them easygoing and welcoming, and listening in on beer-fuelled banter in one of the countless bars and cafés can be a highlight – provided you understand some German, of course. The city also has a cosmopolitan flavour, with a vibrant Turkish community adding some spice to the mix.
Eating Out in Berlin
German food suffers from a bad rep – even the country’s top chefs are haunted by sauerkraut jokes. But in reality it is underrated, and Berlin boasts an excellent choice of restaurants. The focus in traditional eateries is on huge portions of filling fare – usually dominated by meat (mostly pork) and potatoes. Local specialities include Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes), served with stewed apples, Bouletten (meatballs), and Berliner (doughnuts). The best places to try traditional dishes is in a Kneipe, old-fashioned pubs serving huge portions and litre-glasses of beer.
Young Berliners have moved away from traditional calorific fare, however, and embraced instead “Nouvelle Deutsche” cuisine, a modern take on international food, with more than a cursory nod at flavours introduced by the city’s immigrants.
Top Places to Eat in Berlin
Café Einstein: Kurfürstenstrasse 58, Tiergarten
+49 (0) 30 261 5096, www.cafeeinstein.com
This Berlin institution is the best spot for a genuine coffee-and-cake experience. An old fashioned Vienn
ese-style café, the Einstein has gilt-edged mirrors, marble-top tables and smart waiters. The cakes are fabulous, although you can also come here for breakfast or a full meal.
Schwarzenraben: Neue Schönhauser Strasse, Mitte
+49 (0) 30 2839 1698 (www.schwarzenraben.de)
Located in the trendy heart of Mitte, Schwarzenraben is a fashionable celebrity-owned Italian restaurant, attracting a young, slick crowd. The interior has lofty ceilings and long leather banquettes, and the food is imaginative modern Italian, such as lobster ravioli or Sicilian aubergine salad. Good wine list, but unsmiling service.
Vau: Jägerstrasse, Mitte
+49 (0) 30 207 9730 (www.vau-berlin.de)
This understated restaurant offers a stylish setting and some of Berlin’s finest dining. Vaulted ceilings and modern art set the scene, and the menu is seasonal – during winter, there’s a good choice of game, such as roast wild boar or pigeon.
Kasbah: Gipsstrasse 2, Mitte
+49 (0) 30 2759 4361 (www.kasbah-berlin.de)
Filled with silk scatter cushions, low tables and Moroccan lamps, Kasbah offers an enjoyable setting for well-prepared North African cuisine. Starters include delicious chicken parcels dusted with cinnamon, followed by a range of couscous and tagine dishes – the chicken with preserved lemons is popular.
Zur Letzten Instanz: Waissenstrasse 14-16, Mitte
+49 (0) 30 242 5528 (www.zurletzteninstanz.de)
This warm wood-panelled Kneipe has been serving frothy glasses of beer and traditional German fare since 1621, and still draws in the crowds with its reliable food and jovial atmosphere. The house speciality is Eisbein, tender roasted pork served with Sauerkraut.
Local Brew
The favourite local tipple is Berliner Weisse, a wheat beer which is served with a shot of raspberry or woodruff syrup. You’ll need a sweet tooth to enjoy it; otherwise order it “ohne Schuss” – without the shot. Although Germany is deservedly famous for its beers, Berlin’s sophisticated character means that wines and cocktails are just as popular. The most prolific watering holes are cafés, although the distinction between café, bar and restaurants is blurry – you can usually have a full meal, a coffee and cake or a late night cocktail in any one café.
Nightlife in Berlin
Unlike the rest of the country, Berliners like to eat out in the evenings, so be sure to book at table if you plan to dine at around 8 pm. The biggest night out is Saturday, although Thursdays are also busy. Nightlife tends to be fairly late – bars start to fill up from 10 pm, and people head towards nightclubs from midnight. While Mitte remains the most popular and best-known nightlife hub, other areas have become increasingly fashionable. Schönberg is filled with upmarket bars, Prenzlauer Berg has some of the best clubs, and Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg have cutting-edge bars.
Victoria Bar: Potsdamer Strasse 102, Tiergarten
+49 (0) 30 2575 9977, (www.victoriabar.de)
This super-stylish lounge bar is one for fashionistas. Low leather sofas, moody lighting, and a long dark-wood bar make it a good people-watching spot. There’s a great cocktail list with old-fashioned classics like whisky sours, and the mood is low-key and relaxed.
Watergate: Falckensteinstrasse 49, Kreuzberg
+49 (0) 6128 0395 (www.water-gate.de)
One of the city’s best newcomers is this two-floor nightclub in the edgy area of Kreuzberg. Set right on the river Spree, it has huge windows and modern, minimalist décor. There’s a lounge area downstairs and a big dancefloor upstairs, playing house, funk and electro.
Oxymoron: Hackesche Höfe, Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41, Mitte
+49 (0) 30 2839 1886 (www.oxymoron-berlin.de)
Based in the popular and atmospheric Hackesche Höfe, Oxymoron is a restaurant, bar and club. Trendy Berliners move from cocktails at the bar to dance in the retro-styled nightlclub at the back. Expect kitsch 70s décor and house music.
Tresor: Leipzigerstrasse 126, Mitte
+49 (0) 30 229 0611 (www.tresorberlin.com)
Berlin’s original temple to techno remains one of the city’s most influential nightclubs. Set in the old vaults of a bank, this is a good place to experience the city’s legendary techno – not for the faint-hearted.
Silberstein: Oranienburger Strasse, Mitte
+49 (0) 30 281 2095
This long-standing Oranienburger favourite is a good for a spot of live jazz on Mondays, or a late-night snack of sushi and dance music at the weekend. The interior is a recycler’s dream, with chairs and tables made from scrap metal.
Shopping in Berlin
Kurfürstendam is the main shopping thoroughfare in the west of the city, lined with top-end boutiques, elegant labels and international chain stores. At its eastern end is the famous KaDeWe, a Berlin landmark and the largest department store on the continent. You can shop for household good and clothes here, but the real draw is the legendary food hall on the top floor, with food bars serving everything from caviar and champagne to traditional Berlin potato pancakes.
The area around the Hackesche Höfe in Mitte (in the old East) is the place to head for more alternative designers and boutiques – here you’ll find quirky one-off designs and cool retro furnishings. There area also several flea markets which are worth a browse. The Nostalgiemarkt at Am Kupfergraben has ramshackle stalls crammed with GDR memorabilia, old books, arts and crafts.
Out of Town
Potsdam, just outside Berlin, has one of the most famous sights in the region: Sanssouci, a series of formal gardens holding the splendid Schloss Sanssouci, a rococo marvel built by Frederick the Great. This UNESCO World Heritage Sight can only be visited on a guided tour, so be sure to arrive early (tickets usually sell out by mid-afternoon).
Berlin Parks
A park and royal hunting ground since the 18th century, the Tiergarten turns into something of a local playground in summer. This landscaped area is a wonderfully leafy haven, and is hugely popular for sunbathing, picnicking and Frisbee-throwing. For an al fresco drink, head to the Café am Neuen See, an outdoor pub overlooking a lake.
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