Baywatch: San Francisco, An A-list Destination by Daphne Beames
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Few cities have the allure of San Francisco - where stunning views over a blue bay, an idyllic climate, magnificent scenery, glamour, cultural harmony, and a deep sense of soul live side by side. San Francisco has a halo – and it glows.
The city’s diverse and fiercely proud inhabitants have come from far flung corners to stay in this melting pot of nations. Billy Graham once said: “The Bay Area is so beautiful, I hesitate to preach about Heaven while I’m here” and an elderly inhabitant told her grandchildren that she was sad they had been born in San Francisco - as they would find the rest of the world pale by comparison.
The Approach to the City
On the short drive north from the International Airport, one illusion is shattered: the monumental Golden Gate Bridge at the mouth of San Francisco Bay – the seventh largest single- span bridge in the world – is not gold! (Happily, after the initial discovery that the iconic bridge is, in fact, painted a distinctive shade of vermilion known as ‘International Orange’ - no further disillusionment awaits.)
The approach to the city affords a dreamscape over the sweeping bay and is a tantalising taste of things to come: with the sensational bridge (resembling an Impressionist painting when shrouded in soft, hazy fog) as the scene-stealer, Oakland beyond, and sinister Alcatraz looking incongruously picturesque as it rises above the teal waves. (Ferry tours depart daily for Alcatraz Island – where the infamous Al Capone and “Birdman” Robert Stroud were once detained – but make reservations in advance).
Check into the stately Westin St. Francis - centrally located at Union Square on Powell Street. This grand hotel - with its sumptuous, black marble lobby and gold-topped columns - first opened in 1904 and has played host to Emperor Hirohito, Queen Elizabeth II and many presidents including Bill Clinton and Barack Obama.
Even if you do not stay here - take a thrilling ride on one of the exterior, glass elevators to gaze at the view unfurling over the city as you catapult upward at an incredible speed - before the stomach-lurching drop back to earth. Then, surrounded by exquisite décor and woodwork, catch your breath in the elegant Michael Mina Restaurant. (The definitive panoramic vista can be seen from the top of the 64m high Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill.)
Premiere Shopping Destination
Emerging onto Union Square, Macy’s lodestone department store beckons. The Bay Area’s premier shopping destination has it all, and is a true San Franciscan experience. Save room for the legendary cheesecake at the Sky Terrace Patio: a popular restaurant and bar on the 8th floor and a great vantage for views and people-watching!
Walking is the very best way to acclimatise and explore neighbourhoods. Walk north on Powell to Chinatown - home to the largest Chinese community outside the Orient - enter through the green-tile Chinatown Gate, crowned with twin dragons (Grant and Bush Streets) and prepare for a sensual assault from pungent aromas wafting out of the many restaurants, and from an orchestra of blaring car horns and noisy bargaining in Mandarin and Cantonese. Look up at the pagoda-roofed buildings adorned with colourful street signs displaying Chinese calligraphy, and wander through temples, museums and small shops overflowing with jade jewellery and carved eastern artefacts.
Painted Ladies
On the opposite side of Powell Street is Nob Hill: a prestige address first settled by railroad nabobs and now the site of a cluster of luxury hotels. A few blocks north, Russian Hill commands some of the finest views over the bay and has long been home to old San Franciscan families.
To the west, on the southern slopes of Pacific Heights, rises Japantown or “Nihonmachi”. Here the Peace Plaza, with its five-tiered Peace Pagoda is the venue, each April, for the famous Cherry Blossom Festival, featuring elaborate floats. For a spectacular flashing knife act and the most amazing Japanese food in town, dine at Kabuto Sushi on Geary Boulevard - order Ceviche Roll and ‘prepare to be rocked’!
Perfectly restored Victorian houses - dubbed painted ladies - can be found standing shoulder to shoulder in many neighbourhoods including the Castro, Haight Ashbury, Cole Valley and Pacific Heights. Don’t miss ‘Postcard Row’ on Alamo Square with the skyline of San Francisco in the background. Victorian design, characterized by bays with side windows slanting inward, was popular between 1850-1875 and, astonishingly, about 14,000 Victorian-era homes survived the earthquake and fire of 1906.
In the old Mission District, the quaint Dolores Mission built by Franciscan priests and completed in 1791, has survived four major earthquakes and is one of only two missions that have not been rebuilt. (Dolores and 16th Streets.)
Heart of the City
At the very heart of the city’s tourist appeal are the moving, national historic landmarks: gaily coloured cable cars whizzing past Union Square on their Powell and Market routes - or plying up the slope of Hyde Street on their way to and from the port. Jangling bells announce these maroon- blue-and-gold single-enders as they speed towards their turntables, stopping to disgorge passengers when their load is too great for the steep hills, and carefully avoiding the serpentine bends of Lombard Street (the ‘crookedest’ street in the world).
As evening draws in, join the throng of revellers on Fishermans’ Wharf - second only to Disneyland as the major tourist attraction in California. Watch a golden sunset paint the picturesque harbour crowded with pleasure boats, graceful sailing ships, and the returning fishing fleet. Enjoy the vibrant scene and indulge in the delicious speciality of Jefferson Street: cracked Dungeness crab with sourdough bread - straight from steaming cauldrons on the sidewalk.
Then shop for gaudy souvenirs, take a turn through ‘Ripley’s Believe It or Not’ (a museum of the odd and unusual) and visit the World War II submarine: USS Pampanito. Round off the evening with an impressive dining experience in ‘Crab House at Pier 39’– voted the best crab in San Francisco. (Order skillet-roasted mussels with Killer Crab enchiladas.)
An Oasis of Landscaped Gardens
Spend a day exploring Golden Gate Park: an oasis of landscaped gardens, cultural attractions and recreational space. Wander through the ‘Conservatory of Flowers: a gem of Victorian architecture bordered by ‘Rhododendron Dell’; this vast greenhouse houses a display of exotic orchids and lush, tropical flowers.
Discover ‘Shakespeare Garden’ with its literary theme: a unique, romantic setting for 200 flowers and herbs featured in Shakespeare’s plays. Stop to enjoy a refreshing cup of jasmine tea in the exquisitely beautiful ‘Japanese Tea Garden’, surrounded by waterfalls, ponds, sculptures, cherry trees, and a wooden pagoda.
Then saunter around Stow Lake, climb Strawberry Hill and prepare to be dazzled by the wonders of the California Academy of Sciences. Star sights in this state-of-the-art research and museum centre are the Steinhart Aquarium, the Rainforest Dome, the Morrison Planetarium and Water Planet.
The Aquarium houses more than 38,000 live sea animals – rare fish loop around the mesmerising Fish Roundabout and exhibits include a bright, coral reef from the Philippines. Within a 27,4m diameter dome, the Academy Rainforest teems with living animals, birds and insects - peer into Borneo’s bat caves and descend in a glass elevator to the Amazonian flooded forest.
Don’t miss the Planetarium’s thrilling ‘Tour of the Universe’ including journeys into black holes and to the farthest edges of space. Then come down to earth and view a vision in blue: Water Planet - showcasing a precious resource.
Exploring Further Afield
Allow another day to explore further afield. Drive north over Golden Gate Bridge (or take the ferry from the Embarcadero) to Marin County: land of redwood forests, Mount Tamalpais, and dramatic bayscapes. Sausalito is a charming waterfront community just minutes from San Francisco, and the town’s proud boast is that it is the reason why they built the bridge!
Over a hundred years old and combining Mediterranean flair with glorious views – Sausalito was named by early Spanish explorers for the little willow trees (Saucelito) that were found on the banks of streams. The quaint, bayside town boasts a collection of trendy art galleries and delightful restaurants. It is also the gateway to the wine country and a world-class venue for outdoor activities and water sports.
Within hailing distance lies the historic, fishing village of Tiburon. Originally named ‘Point of Sharks’, the Tiburon Peninsula is surrounded by water on three sides and affords spectacular views of Angel Island and Golden Gate Bridge. Once an old railroad town - the unique Main Street has been preserved much as it was in early Gold Rush times.
Lined with tiny boutiques, art studios and waterfront restaurants, the street is called ‘Ark Row’ as some shops are actually housed in turn-of-the-century, wooden houseboats (arks) that once anchored in the lagoon. To promote its dream of celebrity status, the town plays host to the annual Tiburon International Film Festival (TIFF).
If the ultimate travel destination lies beyond the Pearly Gates, take the next best option and climb half way to the stars! Visit San Francisco and its Golden Bridge: crown jewel of the Californian dream.
Interested in your own California dream? Check out our lisitings of the best luxury hotels in San Francisco.