Barcelona by Daphne Beames
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Ferdinand of Aragon certainly did his best, Columbus played a bit part and Gaud? left a Surrealist mark - but it was an Olympic fairytale that eventually catapulted Catalonia to international fame. When Freddy Mercury and Montserrat Caballé lifted their voices to sing ‘Barcelona’ on one never to be forgotten night - the Catalan capital finally arrived on the world stage. That was then and, following an ambitious programme of urban renewal and an Oscar winning movie from Woody Allen -, Barcelona now ranks as a major tourist destination.
We drove south from the towering Pyrénées, recalling the legend of the tragic princess Pyrene (wooed by Hercules - she fled from an angry father, was savaged by wild beasts and was buried by her unhappy lover on mountains that forever recall her name), through Gerona - past woodland groves and picturesque, rocky coves overlooking the beautiful, blue Med.
Attention romantics, solace seekers and those in search of holiday magic - less than 80 kms north of Barcelona - in a dramatic setting that should be twinned with a travel poster - is an idyllic, coastal resort. The striking Hotel Santa Marta clings to the cliffs above Playa de Santa Cristina, standing proudly above an elegant stretch of pearly sand and is set amidst 15-acres of pine forests, flower-filled gardens and velvety lawns. The partly hidden approach road winds seductively through a tree-lined park complete with its own Roman folly. From their steep, hillside location rooms and terraces afford wonderful, sweeping views over the ocean and a courtesy shuttle waits to transport guests down the lush, green slope - to the Hotel’s Sporting Club below where a gleaming pool, a clutch of tennis courts and a private beach await.
Enjoy Catalan cuisine at its best in the restaurant by the sea, and dine on tartare de saumon frais au caviar, clams in champagne, and mignon de veau aux trois sauces - followed by an outstanding dessert buffet and accompanied by an excellent selection of Spanish wines. (Santa Marta is a member of Luxury Lifestyle Hotels and Resorts - Europe.)
The next morning excitement mounted as we left for the short drive to Barcelona. Founded, according to legend, about 230 BC by the Carthaginian general, Hamilcar Barca, the old Mediterranean port then fell to successive waves of conquest by Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Franks until it finally became part of the Kingdom of Aragon in the 12th-Century.
The exuberant Catalan character exudes a magnetic vibe and the approach to the city heralds expectation. Scan the skyline for a unique sight: rising above monuments, trees and cloud are the surreal, 100m tall, openwork spires of the ’Templo Expiatorio de la Sagrada Familia’ – Antoni Gaudi’s huge, unfinished ‘Temple of the Sacred Family”.
Love him or hate him – none can be impervious to Gaudi. His unusual style includes undulating curves, elements of Cubism and Art Nouveau but draws primarily from nature and fits no specific architectural prototype.
From a distance the impressive Roman Catholic Church appears almost complete (apart from cranes and scaffolding which make periodic appearances) but, on entering, one finds that the interior is still one vast building site! Construction began in 1882 and is not scheduled to cease until 2026 (the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death). Gaudi, himself, worked on the church – sometimes mistakenly called a cathedral - for forty years and never seemed in haste. He once remarked: “My client is not in any hurry!” The partially built landmark is one of the most popular attractions in Spain and is visited by over 2 million people each year. Eighteen, tall, spindle-shaped spires represent the most striking aspect of the design and on completion the central tower – symbolising Jesus Christ - will be surmounted by a giant cross. Climb the curved stairway for magnificent views over the parks and gardens; look up towards the geometrical shapes distinguishing the Evangelical towers on the Nativity façade; and discover the mathematical, magic square on the wall of the Passion façade. This is possibly the most remarkable church conceived in the last 100 years. (Open to the public daily. Admission charge)
And then it’s off to explore the famous, walking street: ‘La Rambla’ - linking the seafront promenade (Paseo de Colon) with the main square. This colourful, tree-lined passage was originally the path of a small stream flowing just outside the walled city (Cuitat Vella) and its name derives from the Arabic meaning ‘sandy ground’. Today the crowded pavements of golden stone are fringed with craft stores, flower shops, animal stalls and curio kiosks - while buskers, artists and painted poseurs provide animated entertainment.
At the upper, northern end of La Rambla lies the Plaça de Catalunya, the city’s busiest hub; the square is surrounded by monumental structures and dominated by the largest building in town: the department store, ‘El Corte Ingles’. For an incomparable bird’s eye view over Barcelona, visit the restaurant on the ninth floor before ambling down the old walkway.
The popular, pedestrianised street has characteristic divisions: the first section taking its name from the Canaleta Fountain and the second from the 16th-century University (now demolished) - while the Rambla de les Flors features an attractive flower market and a famous mosaic by Joan Miró in the small Plaça de la Boqueria.
From here a short, easterly diversion leads into the narrow, winding lanes of the Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic) – for 2000 years the spiritual and secular heart of the city. Wander into a medieval maze where great Gothic buildings take centre stage - towards the vast Barrio Cathedral crowning Mont Tabor – the highest point of the old quarter. Three cruciform aisles and twenty-nine lateral chapels adorn the interior of the ornate basilica while palm trees and magnolias grace a secluded, 14th-century cloister garden where 13 geese roam in a central courtyard (one for each year of the life of Santa Eulalia – the patron saint of Barcelona).
Be sure to view the Casa de los Canónigos – a restored 14th-century house linked by a wonderful bridge to the 15th-century, Gothic Palau de la Generalitat.
It is always about location - but while the very best way to locate the delights of a city is on foot, weary explorers require a central oasis and, in the heart of the old town, La Méridien (a luxury hotel nestling under shady trees at 111 La Rambla) fits the bill perfectly. This extravagantly refurbished hotel (it received a 30m upgrade in 2008) offers superb accommodation together with a stylish, new restaurant: the ‘Cent Onze’ and double glazing to protect against the 24/7 pedestrian buzz.
Look south towards the Rambla de Mar and the 60m high ‘Monument a Colum’ in the Square of the Gate of Peace. In the 19th-century Columbus was considered a Catalan and the column, topped by a statue of the discoverer of the New World, was built for the Universal Exhibition in 1888. It stands on the site where the conquering hero arrived in 1493 after his epic voyage to America the previous year, and a lift ascends to a lofty observation platform from where panoramic views over the city and the Port Viel can be seen.
The ‘Rambla of the Sea’ continues over a wooden walkway towards Maremàgnum: a modern complex of shops, cinemas, an IMAX theatre and an impressive aquarium.
Barcelona’s quaint and unique charm owes much to the outstanding wealth of her architecture and the visual impact of countless colourful and unusual buildings (almost on every corner) is unforgettable. A showstopper in the collection is the wave-like façade and avant-garde rooftop of the Casa Milà: Gaudi’s 1905-12 cut-stone gem, curving around two kidney-shaped courtyards. This remarkable building is known as ‘the quarry’ and looks as if it were made of moulded clay. (At 92 Passeig de Gràcia - now an apartment block). Her appeal is infinite, her welcome is warm and her character is eclectic. As a 'living Art Gallery' and atop tourist destination, Barcelona is unrivalled.
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