Bali Self-Driving by John Borthwick

It's a familiar morning scene in Bali: a vehicle buried to its hubs in sand and sea-water. The driver had attempted a midnight shortcut along Seminyak Beach, just north of Kuta. Passers-by take bets on when a tractor - better still, a pair of water buffalo - will arrive to rescue the car from the high tide. Eventually, a squad of labourers appears and with much effort frees the sodden toy.

For once, this isn't the case of a tourist who, Bali-high on beer and bungy-jumps, had thought himself invincible and his hire car indestructible. This vehicle was piloted by a local would-be playboy, labouring it seems under similar delusions. "Self-drive" rental cars are popular among tourists in Bali. Like the relentless hawkers of Kuta Beach, these can be a mixed blessing, with the attendant stress sometimes outweighing the convenience. Most hire vehicles are either small, four-seat Suzukis or seven-seat Toyota 4WDs.

If you're contemplating hiring a car in Bali, firstly ask yourself: "Why bother?" For less than US$30 per day you may hire, usually via your hotel tour desk, a car plus driver. You don't need to worry about fuel, contracts, deposits or insurance. And, piloted by a young Wayan, Made, Nyoman or Ketut (who often doubles as an amiable guide), you don't get lost or get booked by a traffic cop.

With hands and eyes free, you can soak up the delights of the Balinese countryside: the green baize of the paddy fields, the split gate temples, the daily processions. And during the endless traffic jam that oozes from Ubud to Denpasar and Kuta, your chauffeur does all the hard work, both at the wheel and on the horn. One tip: You may need to firmly instruct said driver that you don't want to stop at numerous jewellery/sculpture/painting galleries, even if they are all run by his "cousins".

If the idea of piloting your own self-drive car is irresistible, there are a few tips. Bring your current driver's licence - most hirers also insist on an International Drivers Licence; carry them at all times when you drive. Or, a temporary driving permit can be obtained from the Denpasar Traffic Police. You'll need to be over age 21.

Rent from a larger, reputable firm, such as Hertz or Semadi; indeed, pre-booking from home is a good idea. Their rates may be higher than those of the numerous "informal", side-of-the-road renters, but the backup is there should you get into an accident (plenty of tourists do) and their paperwork is usually straight. Australian Consul-General in Denpasar, George Fraser stresses that hirers should take the highest available level of comprehensive insurance (covering all vehicles and injuries). You should also insist on reading the contract: make sure all details of the registration, insurance coverage and hiring fee are entered correctly.

Why the fuss? Everyone knows that the Balinese are a happy-go-lucky people. Think again. Should you damage someone's livestock, motorcycle, person or vehicle, you'll learn that it may take a million or so rupiah in cash - quickly - to witness those smiles again. And that some Balinese aren't averse to using a little muscle to hasten your understanding. Being well insured may be your only defense.

The local outlook on road accidents can go like this: even though (for instance) a Balinese motorcyclist hits the rear of your car, it's your fault - because you're a foreigner. The logic is as irrefutable as it is unique: if you, the foreigner, hadn't been in Bali, the local driver couldn't have hit you. Balinese "traditional" law then applies: you must reimburse the receipted medical costs of the injured person and are expected to show care, for example, by visiting them in hospital.

Most Balinese roads were originally built for feet, carts and bicycles, and they've hardly been widened since. Then the god of tourism brought the world to Bali in a jumbo jet, and soon the densely-populated island became sufficiently prosperous for everyone to want wheels.

Indonesia (and thus Bali) drives on the left of the road - most of the time. On narrow rural roads you'll encounter pushbikes, motorcycles, geese, dogs, ceremonial processions, thundering buses, trucks, pedestrians and carts - sometimes all together, and frequently in "triple overtaking" mode.

Under these conditions, if you average 30 kph you're probably speeding. In built-up areas, especially around Denpasar and Kuta, allow an exceedingly generous amount of time to get anywhere. The traffic jams rival those of Bangkok or Manila.

The use of horns in Bali is frequent, and not impolite; it's a type of aural semaphore. You might say a Balinese driver uses the horn because the others don't use their mirrors. A gentle honking may be a polite notification to you of another vehicle's presence, not a warning or sign of annoyance. Finally, how about driving along those wide beaches in your rental jeep? It's wind-blown, care-free, absolute no-no.