Antwerp by Stephen Emms
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De Witte Lelie
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Antwerp, which teeters on the tip of Flemish Belgium, is an elegant 16th-century city that rebranded itself as a fashion hub in the 1980s, due in some part to the international acclaim around the “Antwerp Six”, a particularly talented group of students who graduated from the Fine Arts academy (including Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten).
Casually fusing history with cutting-edge fashion and design, Antwerp’s lust for culture can be traced back to a bustling Renaissance diamond industry which kick-started the first wave of elegant architecture (don’t miss the gabled buildings round the Grote Markt), as well as attracting artists including Peter Paul Rubens, whose work adorns the cavernous 14th-century Cathedral.
A second wave of prosperity followed with the Industrial Revolution, culminating in Antwerp hosting the Olympic Games in 1920, before the city slumped, like much of Europe, after two world wars. It’s now the eclectic cultural scene that attracts most tourists – although diamonds are again big business – and who can fail to lap up stunning riverside architecture, progressive art museums, bijou bars, directional fashion stores and world-class restaurants? And what’s more, you’ll even be understood as everyone speaks – and enjoys practising – perfect English.
Why Go Now?
There’s a quiet buzz building about Antwerp’s newest B ‘n’ B, Boulevard Leopold (135 Belgelei). Already featured in European design magazines, owners Burt and Vincent spent nine months converting a three storey 1890 Flemish townhouse into a stunning deco palace, restoring marble fireplaces, original tiling and floors, fabulous chandeliers and early 20th-century furniture.
A huge wooden table in the candle-lit living room is awash with guidebooks to borrow during your stay, and a classy breakfast, prepared by former chef-patron Burt, is served in a plant-filled atrium. What’s more, a stay here won’t break the budget.
Get me to Dries
If you follow fashion, you’ll not know where to start. After all, Antwerp has produced such greats as Margiela, Bikkembergs, and Raf Simons. So calm down and head straight to Nationalestraat where, opposite Van Noten’s original sartorial temple (16), you’ll find MoMu, the new fashion museum, located in the 19th-century ModeNatie complex, which also features the excellent Copyright bookshop, a library, café and the Flanders Fashion Institute. Don’t forget the Demeulemeester store on 38 Verlatsstraat, opposite the Fine Arts Museum.
It’s all about Het Zuid
Once you’ve done Nationalstraat, stroll down to Het Zuid (‘south district’), for years now the coolest quarter. En route, browse the tardis-like antique and bric-a-brac shops along Kloosterstraat (especially Blue Fonz at No 12), before reaching hip Waalse kaai/ Vlaamse Kaai.
Originally a waterside quai, it’s been concreted over and now is home to busy restaurants and bars like Entrecote Du Congo (42 Vlaamse Kaai), Pig’s Café (11 Visserskaai) Bar Tabac (43 Waalse Kaai). Don’t miss the Museum of Photography (47 Waalse Kaai) or MUHKA, the contemporary art museum, on the edge of the river Scheldt, whose calming white circular rooms host often controversial exhibitions.
Het Zuid
You have to hit Het Zuid and the streets around Grote Markt like Reynderstraat and Vrijdagmarkt (in particular In De Roscam café on the corner) or arty hangout De Pelikaan (14 Melkmarkt), where a ‘bolleke’ (glass of beer) is a bargain £1.
No more Moules-Frites!
In that case, try these two: Zuiderterras (37 Ernest Van Dijckkaai), the architect-designed ship-shaped glass tower with 360 degree views overlooking the river Scheldt, which offers superb food-as-art such as scallops prepared three ways, or tuna sashimi. Or book ahead for Antwerp’s own version of The Ivy, the Michelin-starred but affordable Da Kleine Zavel (2 Stoofstraat), which offers simple but tasty dishes for an understated local crowd.
Go: For one day in late September, Antwerp's parks, museums and churches waive admission fees for visitors. Impromptu concerts are staged at surprise venues.
Buy: a Flemish painting at the browse-able T Koetshuis (No 10 Kloosterstraat).
Drink: 200 types of ‘genever’ (local gin) at wood-panelled bar De Vagant (25 Reynderstraat).
Admire: the beautiful 16th-century GroteMarkt, and spectacular 14th-century cathedral.
Eat Moules: at Bacino (5 Torbrug), a candlelit brasserie in the old town.