Alte Post by Christoph Hargreaves-Allen

The Alte Post does not promote itself aggressively - in fact it does not promote itself at all - and this is part of its charm. It's very much a family-run establishment, with pleasant, down-to-earth rooms at inexpensive prices. It's guarded by a grumpy sausage dog lying next to the door of its famous kitchen. This just happens to be one of the two best restaurants in town, faithfully frequented by the King of Sweden after whom they have named the weekly Swedish Buffet, an astonishing display of food. Don't forget to eat more than breakfast if you're staying here, although you will still need to book.

The hotel has an on-going, unspoken competition with the Walserhof for the prize of the best cooking in town and it's almost impossible to say who wins, so high are the stakes. The dining room is a study in Alpine homeliness. Well-situated for skiing, too, the Post is a good walk from the centre and lies on a quiet edge of the town. Its tone is easy-going and familiar. The other guests are likely to be middle-Europeans, who are the best positioned visitors to know of its quiet but serious culinary reputation. The rooms are cheap and simple: it's more an inn than a hotel.