Albergo Duomo by Kamin Mohammadi

Oristano, in Western Sardinia, is one of the island’s nicest provincial towns, unaffected by tourism and robustly going about its own business. The early evening passagiato in the main square is one of the best for people-watching. Near the cathedral, the new Il Duomo Hotel is just round the corner from the historical centre and its ample people-watching opportunities and makes a wonderful change from the town’s other functional hotels.

The house dates from 1600 and has been beautifully restored, with its outside walls a burnt pink that absorbs the late afternoon sun and inside a friendly reception. Downstairs, the restaurant can accommodate up to 100 people, useful for when the Sartiglia takes place round the cathedral – it is an ancient horse races in which riders race around the Duomo while trying to form a star with their swords, the sort of madcap horse-back dare-devilry that the Sardinians are so fond of. The restaurant serves cuisine drawn from the nearby Montiferru mountains where the owner used to live. There is also a charming inner courtyard where drinks are served and little tables set on the cobbles.

Upstairs there is a large lounging area with a massive TV and huge sofas to sink into. The ten large bedrooms are all furnished in an antique Sardinian style, again with furniture from the Montiferru region. With wrought iron balconies, sizeable bathrooms and pretty window boxes, the rooms are really charming. Considering the hotel is probably aimed at businessmen and is so cheap it is a real discovery for anyone wishing to while away a few days in Oristano.