Albergo Annunziata by Matthew Barker

A favourite haunt of Casanova, situated in the centre of this small, walled Renaissance city, overlooking Estense Castle. The hotel oozes genial stately charm, with elegant rooms featuring 17th century beams, balconies overflowing with flowers, and pampering staff. 24 rooms (one suite).

Hotel Attractions: Breakfast includes fine homemade pastries, served in a room decorated with works by local artists; the bar boasts a small wine cellar and well-stocked humidor. Free bicycle lending service and Ferrra and Argenta golf courses both nearby.

Local Attractions: Archetypal north Italian medieval city, where scooters roar past ramparts and ancient piazzas buzz with calcio-fixated espresso bars. The castle (complete with splendidly grim dungeon) dates from 1385; the cathedral, smattering of churches and Teatro Comunale are all quietly impressive. The Palazzo Massari houses the Giovanni Boldini Museum and Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; the Civic Museum of Ancient Art at the Palazzo Schifanoia contains celebrated Renaissance frescoes. The Osteria al Brundisi is Italy’s oldest, hip and thigh diet be damned: pumpkin-filled cappellacci con la zucca; macaroni pie flavoured with truffles. Stock up on la cappia bread at the Mercato Comunale food market. Outside the city Isola Bianca on the river Po has been a summer island retreat for hot and bothered locals since the 1500s.

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