A Trip through Paris to Lille to Brussels by Mark Davidson
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I have always wondered whether "The Opera Ghost" really existed or was he, as was long believed, a creature of the imagination of the artistes? I was on a personal visit to the Paris Opera house, part of a recent sojourn into Europe, which included visits to Lille and Brussels in Belgium. Having read the novel by Gaston Leroux, I always wanted to visit the “Phantom of the Opera’s” humble dwelling. It was a desire to see how a man struggled against the establishment, despite his disfigurement, trying to find happiness with his true love, Christine.
Although I had the opportunity to take a guided tour, I decided to walk round the building on my own. Eerie as it was, I wondered if I was being watched from behind a curtain or through an air vent. 'Magnifique' is a word than can be bestowed on the interior architecture that adorned every corner of the building. To give it its proper name, the Palais Garnier is the thirteenth theatre to house the Paris Opera since it was founded by Louis XIV in 1669.
Ornate Splendour
The ornate splendour of the palace is a far cry from the hustle and bustle of St. Pancras as I began my journey to France. Eurostar is an easy and convenient way to travel there. Opened in 1994, the journey from London to Paris takes under three hours. There was plenty of room on the train with designated spaces for those in wheelchairs. We set off slowly on the English side of the channel. There was an announcement as we entered the Channel tunnel, a sort of fanfare. We then travelled the 31 miles under the sea. On the French side, heading towards Paris the locomotive gathered speed, reaching 186 miles per hour.
My accommodation in Paris could be described as homely with narrow stairways, and my window overlooked an inner courtyard. However, it didn't seem feasible that the hotel lift would be able to accommodate wheelchairs. It is situated in an area close to a number of patisseries and, needless to say, any chance of dieting disappeared rapidly. There are many bars (Tabacs) allowing you to sit and smoke and watch the world pass by.
I was able to explore the area nearby; with the Basilique du Sacre-Coeur in close proximity. In the arrondissement of Montmatre, it is situated high above the city. Being somewhat adventurous I decided to walk there, and found it an arduous task as it is high above the centre of Paris. However, on a good day, from the top of the Dome, there is a panoramic view in all directions extending over 30 kilometres. Built at the end of the 19th century it contains one of the world's largest mosaics. For those who can't face the long walk back, the funicular railway allows you to take the journey down. Nearby, a number of artists regularly set up their work in the Place du Tetre and I had a good look at some of the paintings on display.
Well-Known Sights
Another attraction close to my hotel is the world renowned Moulin Rouge. French for "Red Windmill" it is a traditional cabaret, built in 1889 by Joseph Oller. The famous dance performed is the Can-Can (immortalised by the artist Toulouse-Lautrec) and the building derives its name from the large red imitation windmill on its roof. It is said the locals see it as a symbol of French culture as well as the Bohemian influence on Western Europe.
I found the easiest way to get around many of the well-known sights was to ride on one of the many hop-on, hop-off open-top double decker buses that frequent the city. I was supplied with a set of headphones, allowing me to listen to the commentary in English. For those who are not interested in organised sightseeing tours the Paris Metro also offers a quick and easy method to get to the many attractions.
A trip to Paris is not complete without visiting the Musée de Louvre. Despite the huge number of paintings and artifacts on display, I followed the crowds to see the "lady with the enigmatic smile". Unfortunately, she displays her happiness from behind a pane of bulletproof glass. However I feel I will not be the only one to think "Is that it?" Although considered the most valuable painting in the world I left wondering what the excitement was all about. You enter the museum via the Pyramid designed by the Chinese-American architect Leoh Ming Pei. Made of glass in order to be transparent and reflect the sky, it contains 793 panes. It even boasts its own robot, designed especially for the weekly cleaning.
Best Way to See Paris
I found the best way to see Paris in one go was to ascend the Eiffel Tower and I decided to see the city with the back light of the evening sky. It is regarded, not only as one of the great landmarks of France, but of the world. Designed by Gustev Eiffel for the International Exhibition of Paris of 1889, it commemorates the centenary of the French Revolution. I had the choice of three lifts, located in three of the four legs. The fourth has stairs up to the first level for those with a strong constitution.
Large numbers of people can be carried up the tower at any one time. I passed the first stage, housing a restaurant, and headed to the second. After a brief moment looking around the viewing platform, I hurriedly completed the ascent to the top. It was extremely windy up there, almost gale-force. I presumed however, that at the height of 300 metres this was the norm. As I viewed the capital from far and near I could only marvel at the bright lights of the city.
I have a penchant for fictional characters in books and seeing their origins. Notre-Dame was no exception as I visited the cathedral. Based on the book by Victor Hugo in 1831 I was intrigued to see the official residence of the Hunchback. From the gargoyles to the bell towers you can see the splendour that the cathedral's most famous occupant must surely have admired. It is said that the main bell, the "Emmanuel", was last rung in 1944 to celebrate the liberation of France. Where was Quasimodo at the time I wonder?
Walking along the Champs-Élysée (meaning "Elysian Fields") towards the Arc de Triomphe, I imagined the stories and incidents one of Paris's most famous avenues must have witnessed. It was in the vicinity that many of the executions took place during the French Revolution. All major civic celebrations take place along this broad avenue, including the Bastille Day military parade on July 14.
A Refreshing Alternative
Despite the option of going to Brussels directly from Paris I'd had my fill of big city life for a day or two so travelled northwards to the smaller town of Lille; offering a refreshing alternative to the hustle and bustle of the Parisian way of living. To get there I took the Train à Grande Vitesse (TGV), the high-speed rail system.
Walking through the streets it had a friendly appeal that bigger conurbations lack. It seemed the town took pride in its colourful past, and I enjoyed the markets, carnival atmosphere, and everyday life. The town square even has a large Ferris wheel in the centre.
In a bar that evening I chatted with a local resident and found out that they are known as "Ch'tis" after the local dialect. It was even once known as the "Manchester of France" - but the old textile mills and dirty heavy industry have largely gone, driven out of business in the second half of the 20th century (as in Britain) by lower cost foreign producers.
I had a chance to try the regional food. Eating in a bar serving side orders of local delicacies. I tried carbonnade flamande (beef slow-cooked in beer and served with gingerbread).
The City Life
I yearned for city life once again and turned my attention to the capital of Belgium. Due to the comprehensive network in Europe I found the TGV to Brussels would only be a 40 minute train ride.
Upon my arrival I could see the different designs adorning many of the buildings in Brussels, with Flemish influence prevalent everywhere. There are no better examples than those in the Grand Place, the centre of tourism in the capital. The locals know it as the Grote Markt - "One of the most beautiful town squares in Europe". Writers like Victor Hugo were struck by the charm of the market square with its beautiful set of Guild houses dominated by the Town Hall and the King's house.
It was a good excuse to enjoy a strong Belgium beer, especially one brewed by the trappist monks, whilst admiring the beautiful scenery. Concerts and musical events are organized all through the year here. The most famous ones are the annual Ommegang (an historical procession at the beginning of July) and the biennial flower carpet during the third week of August. Belgian begonia growers decorate the Market Place with a beautiful flower carpet.
Around the edge, along with a plethora of bars, there are a number of restaurants serving mussels. On a number of occasions, the owners tried to tempt me into dining in their premises with offers of free wine and beer. Due to the number of eating establishments, they are literally falling over themselves to attract custom. In one of the many chocolate shops, I succumbed to my sweet tooth and sampled the delights on offer. Many say it is the finest chocolate in the world.
Superstition is common place and Julien Dillen’s 19th century golden statue of Evrard 't Serclaes is a prime example. It is located just outside the main tourist area and the monument seems to have an unnatural sheen to it. Over the years, according to legend, rubbing the wrist of the statue will bring good luck and grant long-forgotten wishes.
The Oldest Residents
Yet the most famous, and oldest resident of the city, treats anyone who looks at him with disdain. Manneken-Pis, to give him his proper name, stands there relieving himself to his hearts content. According to an historical plaque nearby, the statue was at one time used to dispense liquor.
Since there were large crowds that day, I decided to return on another occasion. To my surprise I saw he was now dressed in costume, complete with baseball cap. I found out the costumes are changed according to a schedule by Les Amis de Manneken-Pis, in ceremonies that are often accompanied by brass band music. When the water is turned back on after re-dressing him, the build-up of pressure after such a long abstinence can lead to bystanders being sprinkled.
One of the most amazing sites I have seen is the Atomium, built in 1958 to celebrate the world fair and was the star of Expo 58'. It is a large iron molecule, 165 billion times bigger than life-size. It has nine spheres each having exhibitions all the year round. However, on my visit I found I could only view this impressive structure from the outside as it has recently undergone refurbishment and is due to re-open at the beginning of 2006.
As I was due to return to England that evening it seemed a fitting finale to see a great monument dedicated to science. Recounting the number of attractions that I’d seen, I realised there is an awful lot of sightseeing possible in just a few days.
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